In the manufacture of some clothing, small pieces of fabric that are diamond-shaped, triangular or rectangular in shape are intentionally sewn into it. Each such insert is called a gusset. What it is? Why do you need a gusset, and how to sew it into the product? This is described in detail in our article.
Gusset - what is it?
Gusset is often compared to a patch. But these are completely different concepts. A patch is a piece of fabric that is sewn to clothes to hide a hole formed on it. The gusset also differs from it in purpose. What it is?
Gusset is a piece of fabric that is sewn into places with a risk of increased tension of the material to ensure freedom of movement. If gusset is not inserted into it during manufacture, then it is likely that a patch will be sewn to this place soon.
The gusset is sewn into those places on which a heavy load falls upon movement. For example, it is a joint of a side seam and a sleeve (armhole) or a step seam in trousers. So that when walking the seam does not tear, a small piece of fabric is inserted into it. Gusset is also used in pantyhose, baby romper, men's underwear , etc. That is, in those places where the seam when walking can break. The piece of fabric should be a small triangular, rectangular or diamond-shaped.
In modern fashion, gusset performs not only a practical, but also a decorative function.
Gusset in pantyhose
Gusset is widely used in the manufacture of underwear and tights. The presence of this small piece of fabric indicates not only practicality, but also the high quality of the product. Gusset in tights is sewn into the crotch to ensure the strength of the product, greater width, freedom of movement. In synthetic tights, cotton gusset allows you to increase the hygiene of the product, as it prevents the appearance of odor.
Gusset also has an antibacterial function in pantyhose and helps to maintain women's health. A similar function is performed by a piece of cloth inserted into women's underwear made of synthetic materials.
Diamond-shaped gusset: pattern
It is for gusset that does not require the construction of a separate pattern. The place where you want to put a piece of fabric of a certain shape is simply marked on the drawing. What is gusset in this case? What it is? This is part of the pattern, and it is indicated in a certain way on paper. This piece of fabric is cut out separately from the main parts of the product, while it is necessary to take into account the allowances for the seams on each side.
The gusset for the sleeve may consist of one or two parts. How do they differ among themselves?
The one-piece gusset is a diamond-shaped patch of fabric. This piece of matter is inserted into the incision specially left after sewing the side and axillary sutures.
The gusset, which consists of two parts, is two pieces of fabric, one of which is sewn to the front and the other to the back of the product. The lateral and axillary sutures in this case are sutured after the gusset is sewn. Such a flap of fabric to insert into the product will be much easier.
A sleeve with a gusset, consisting of one or two parts, looks almost invisible, but at the same time wearing such clothes is much more convenient. How to sew a piece of fabric into a sleeve, consider below.
How to sew a gusset in a sleeve
Stitching gusset in the sleeve of the product is performed in the following sequence:
- Sew side and axillary sutures, leaving a small incision under the gusset open.
- Put gusset on the left cut from the inside. Combine the ends of the cut with its corners, connect all the seams according to the allowance.
- You need to attach the seams alternately from one corner to another, each time unfolding the product to yourself.
- Only after all the seams are sewn can the basting be removed. Check that all seams on the front side are even, after which they can be removed. Iron the gusset on the front of the product, then overcast the seams from the inside.
In a similar way, you can insert a piece of fabric into men's underpants with a gusset, stitching it to the two halves of the fabric along the seam line.