Sooner or later, every motorist encounters such a phenomenon as body corrosion. Indeed, this is a very serious problem, because if the rust is not eliminated in time, it can spread throughout the body, “eat” the doors, sills, and wheel arches of the car.
In order to keep the machine in its original form as much as possible, one should not hesitate in eliminating the corrosion problem. In today's article, we will talk about such a useful tool as a rust converter. Which solvent is better to choose and how to use it? Motorist reviews and the characteristics of this substance are all discussed in detail below.
Appointment
A rust converter is a tool that serves to turn a corrosion layer into a thin film that performs protective functions. Basically, such substances are applied to surfaces from low alloy and carbon steels.
However, even the most powerful solvent has a limit of action. So, the boundary thickness of the rust layer on the car body should not exceed 100 microns.
What parts of the body is it applied to?
The rust converter ("Chain Mail" including) can dissolve corrosion on absolutely any surface of the car body. It can be:
1. Wheel arches.
2. Thresholds.
3. Door racks.
4. Door cavities.
5. Welded joints of the body.
6. Hood, trunk and other metal parts of the car.
The composition of the funds
Phosphoric acid is a part of the majority of funds of this type . Some manufacturers replace it with other substances based on tannin or hydroxycarboxylic acid. Recently, the so-called film converters began to appear more on store shelves. They are also called soil. In addition to acids, they include the following components:
- Inhibitors
- Biocides.
- Pigments.
All these compounds contribute to the effective removal of corrosion from any metal surface, and also improve the protective properties of the treated coatings.
Operating principle
The algorithm of these substances is to restore iron oxides, after which a protective polymer-latex film is formed at this place. The latter is a kind of soil, which in the future will hold the applied layer of paint and varnish, while not allowing rust to re-form. Due to the presence of potent substances in its composition, corrosion removal takes only a few minutes.
Varieties
There are several varieties of these substances. The first type is modifier primers. They are an excellent option for those who are preparing a car (or a certain part of the body) for painting, because after the action of such products a special film appears on the surface. You can immediately apply paint to it (even without a layer of soil).
The second type is special stabilizers. They are designed to convert unstable iron oxides to more stable compounds.
The third is penetration. By their properties, such converters interact with corrosion products, thereby sealing them.
By viscosity, all three types of substances are divided into liquid and very viscous. They also differ in the method of application. Some products are applied by spraying and others by brushing.
Rust converter - which is better to choose? About manufacturers
There are many companies involved in the production of these products. In Russia, one of the most popular is the rust converter from the company "Mail". This tool belongs to the most common type of substance - film solvents.
After applying to the surface, “Chain Mail” completely removes the corrosion layer. As a result, gray oxide zinc oxide-phosphate soil is formed at this place, which is not exposed to water, salt and other external factors. Judging by the reviews, Chain Mail is a very good rust converter. The manual states that it takes only a few minutes to turn the corrosion layer into zinc. And there is one bottle (volume - one hundred milliliters) of such a substance of only fifty to eighty rubles.
But this is not the only rust converter on the market. Driver reviews also note a good result of INTREPID. It copes with corrosion and dissolves it well on any surface at any scale. This is perhaps the best rust converter on the world market. The only drawback of this solvent is its cost. The average price of one vial of INTREPID is one thousand two hundred rubles.
There is another, cheaper rust converter with zinc. It is called ROST KILLER. This cleaner perfectly relieves products from velvet rust and leaves a thin protective coating of silver tint. A place treated with ROST KILLER is not rusted for years. At the same time, the substance does not eat up normal metal - its effect extends only to parts of the body damaged by corrosion. How much does a rust converter cost? The price of ROST KILLER is about three hundred and eighty rubles. It is very cheap compared to how much you have to pay for a similar INTREPID solvent.
Silit Bang is another rust converter. The price for it is 3 times lower than on ROST KILLER. It satisfactorily fights against corrosion, but does not leave behind a protective layer. Therefore, the area treated with such a tool may soon become rusty again, even if it has been primed before painting. As a result, the surface of the paintwork is dotted with pimples, and in some places it can simply crumble. Therefore, Silit Bang is not the best automotive solvent.
So which rust converter to choose? Reviews of motorists say that the most effective and cheapest tool is ROST KILLER. In its effectiveness, it is practically not inferior to the expensive analog INTREPID, while it is available to most motorists.
This is not a complete list of good tools for dissolving corrosion on the surface of metals. Their numbers are measured in dozens. You can choose any rust converter you like (which product is better to buy, only you decide). However, remember that you should give preference to reliable and well-known companies. Otherwise, you will not only throw part of the money into the air, but you will also be disappointed with the result of the work, because in a month rusty stains will again appear on the paintwork.
How to use a rust converter?
What is the best solvent to choose, we have already figured out. Now let's talk about how to use this chemical agent correctly. At the initial stage of processing, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work - completely degrease the surface and remove residual dirt and dust. Further, depending on whether this product is viscous or not, you need to apply it with a solvent or with a brush on a damaged part of the body.
After 10-15 minutes, you will notice how rust turns into a gray substance (phosphate). After that, you can safely wash off the remnants of the abrasive substance and wait until the treated surface dries from water. Next is the primer and metal painting in 3 layers.
Nuances
Pay attention to the instructions on the label. Depending on the type and manufacturer, the solvent must be applied to either a dry or wet surface. At the same time, it is not recommended to use a converter if the thickness of the rust layer is more than 0.1 mm. If this indicator exceeds the specified value, you will have to remove the rust mechanically by using coarse sandpaper (or a grinder with a special nozzle).
Conclusion
So, we examined all the features and purpose of rust solvents. As you can see, this tool very effectively copes with corrosion in absolutely any place on the body. True, its scope is limited by the thickness of the rust layer. In places where corrosion has penetrated metal to holes, the use of solvents is only a small part of the work. In such cases, the only effective repair method is welding (sills, doors - not so important), and then - deep putty. However, this is a completely different story.
So, we found out the purpose and features of rust converters.