"Lada Kalina" is a front-wheel drive car in which the engine and gearbox are located transversely relative to the body. Wheel drive through the main gear. Torque is transmitted by joints of equal angular velocities (simply - SHRUS, or "grenade"). There are several of them - internal and external. Despite their reliability, these elements can fail. Well, let's look at how the “grenade” is replaced with Kalina, what tools are needed for this, and what are the signs of a malfunction.
Device
In their arrangement, the inner and outer CV joints are very similar.
So, the design of the element includes:
- Axle shaft.
- Clamp and boot.
- Clip
- Hinge housing.
- Separator.
- Ball.
- Circlip and taper ring.
- Spring washer.
Thanks to this device, the elements are capable of transmitting torque to the wheels at an angle of up to 45 degrees (and not only in the horizontal, but also in the vertical plane).
How to identify a breakdown?
The grenade is a ball bearing, the cages of which have transverse grooves. Due to this, the angle between the follower and the drive axle changes. Thus, the constant velocity joint not only transmits torque, but also changes the angle between the axles. In view of this, over time, production forms on it. In places where there is no tight fit of parts, backlash and extraneous noise are formed. In fact, this is accompanied by a characteristic crunch. It occurs due to the large production of balls that move along the grooves. A crunch can appear both in a rectilinear motion, and when turning. In the latter case, most likely, the external garnet of "Kalina" needs to be replaced. You should not ignore this symptom, since the bearing may fall apart at high speed.
Instruments
In order for the replacement of the internal "grenade" of Kalina and the external to be successful, we should prepare:
- Two socket heads (17 and 30).
- Ratchet and extension cord.
- Jack.
- Spray gun.
- Vise.
- Hammer.
- Wooden block.
Getting to work. Removal of the constant velocity joint
First of all, we put the car on a manual brake (or install backtracks). Then we tear off the wheel bolts and the hub nut. The latter may not be supplied, so we use an extension cord. Next, install the car on a jack, raise its front part and remove the wheel. Then we find two bolts that attach the grenade to the knuckle.
We turn them off using an extension cord. Be careful - bolts may become sour. For their dismantling, maximum efforts must be made.
Now we unscrew the steering wheel to the extreme position (so that the disc looks out of the wheel arch). We pull the knuckle together with the suspension strut. Next, we extract the outer part of the hub with an external "grenade". If it is tight, you can use a hammer. But you need to beat through a wooden block, otherwise the part will be badly damaged.
Further (if it is an external hinge) we remove the old boot and clamp. Now you need to get the very “grenade" from the hub. To do this, you can use a puller or carry out blows with a hammer on a constant velocity joint. In this case, you need to rotate its semiaxes.
If it is supposed to replace the internal "grenade" with Kalina, all operations are carried out in a similar way. The only thing is that the part is removed from the box with the help of a mount, without hammering.
Assembly
When the old item is taken apart, it's time to prepare a new one for installation. Please note that when installing the CV joint, the boot of the "grenade" "Kalina" is also replaced. Old to use is strictly prohibited, even if it is intact. The element has already undergone wear, and the clamps will not give the same tightening.
So, first we put on a new boot on the axle shaft. For smooth installation, lubricate the contact area with grease. Next, we press the grease into the bearing itself. Please note that this requires a specialized composition. No lithol and graphite will help. This grease is sold in several gram sachets (or in tubes). It is better not to save and buy proven compounds. After all, the resource of a new bearing will depend on the lubricant. The rest of the composition is added to the anther and set the "grenade" on the axis. To do this, use a hammer and a wooden beam. It is important to strike lightly - the new SHRUS will enter without problems.
How is the “grenade" replaced with Kalina? Then we remove excess air from the anther and twist the clamp. After that we put on a knuckle and fix the hub nut. The tightening torque of the latter is 225-250 Nm. The tightening procedure is best done with a torque wrench. How is the “grenade" replaced with Kalina? Now it remains only to tighten all the wheel nuts and lower the machine from the jack. On this replacement of the "grenade" at Kalina was successfully completed.
How to extend the resource?
Typically, these bearings travel 250-300 or more thousand kilometers. They have a very solid construction. However, there are several factors that can significantly reduce their durability. This is the condition of the anther. It is because of it that water, dust, and sand get inside. As a result, the grease turns into a thick abrasive, which destructively acts on the bearing. How to prevent this? During operation, the condition of the anther on the CV joint should be periodically checked. If it has cracks or tears, it must be urgently replaced.
Having detected a breakdown at an early stage, we can keep the hinge in good condition. It can still “resemble” a cracked duster for some time (but it is still undesirable, especially in wet weather). If this problem is ignored further, expensive repairs will be needed. Even if the replacement of the "grenade" on the "Kalina" can be done on their own, its price will still be about 2.5 thousand rubles. And there are several such elements in the car.
Conclusion
So, we found out how to replace the "grenade" on the "Kalina" with our own hands. The operation can be performed in 1-2 hours without an assistant. Of the special tools, it is recommended to prepare a puller and a torque wrench. With them, things will go much easier. You also need to choose the right lubricant. It must be resistant to temperature changes and not change its properties for a long time. Among the manufacturers it is worth noting the "SHRUS-4", "SHRB-4", as well as the imported "Liquid Moli" and "Mobile-1".