Drywall, which has long been widely distributed in our market, is especially good because it allows you to create completely different geometric shapes and turn your home into an amazingly beautiful place.
Very often, craftsmen and designers use a curved plasterboard ceiling in the design of houses and apartments, which is relatively easy to install, but makes an absolutely irresistible impression. Below we will tell you in detail about how all this is done.
General list of works
In order for the work to argue, it is very important to outline your plan for yourself. Here is an approximate sequence of those actions by which you will create your own curly ceiling from gypsum plasterboard (you will find abundant photos in this material). However, we will not be distracted:
- First, the "native" ceiling is measured, the dimensions of each part of the hinged cover are pretended.
- We are exploring possible options, photos. At this stage, it is advisable to adequately imagine what kind of figure you can make a gypsum plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. Do not overestimate your strength! Better to start with simpler shapes and smaller rooms.
- Then you need to determine the sequence according to which you will mount the levels.
- According to the scale of the room, the amount of materials is carefully calculated. The entire required volume is purchased (with a margin of at least 10%).
- If the ceiling has significant potholes and irregularities, it makes sense to fix the mounting grid on it and plaster it again.
- The false ceiling is marked.
- The assembly of the power frame.
- In it, all the necessary communications are laid in advance.
- Once again, measurements are made of the finished frame, after which patterns are made, on which all the curly details are cut.
- The frame is plastered with plasterboard.
- All lighting fixtures are mounted, finishing finishing of the ceiling is made.
Preparation and layout
First of all, you need to prepare a "native" ceiling and walls. Be sure to completely remove the crumbling pieces of plaster: being quite massive, they may well break through the curly ceiling from drywall, so all your work will go down the drain. Of course, you need to dismantle the lighting fixtures, and clean the surfaces of foreign objects like hammered nails.
First you need to determine the height of the very first, lower level of your multi-tiered ceiling. Experts say that it should be at least 25 mm below the minimum mark of the main ceiling, since this volume will occupy both the drywall itself and the profile on which it will be mounted. Find this point and make a noticeable marking on the wall, which you will be guided afterwards.
Using a water or laser level, transfer this marking to all walls, connecting the marks with a pencil. However, professional installers for this purpose use a thread with paint (or a choklayn “in a scientific way”). To make a mark with it, pinch the thread with two fingers, pull and sharply release.
Measure seven times ...
Finally, make sure again that the markup you made is really accurate and there are no gross errors in its lines. Attention! When constructing a figured ceiling from gypsum cardboard with your own hands, always pay particular attention to the accuracy of measurements: if you treat this issue negligently, then the whole structure may well be skewed, which obviously will not add beauty to your home.
Now you need to find the angle in the room that is closest to the 90 degree mark. From it, make marks on the wall every half meter from it. On the opposite wall, repeat the procedure, using the laser level for accuracy. We take a choklayn and we fill between line marks directly on a ceiling. So you mark the places for mounting the suspensions, to which the ceiling profile will be attached.
What consumables will be required?
In order not to get into trouble at the very middle of the work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the list of those necessary consumables that you will need more than once for the installation of a suspended ceiling:
- UD profiles (PNP 27x28). The name stands for "ceiling guide profile."
- CD profiles (software 60x27). This is a normal longitudinal profile.
- "Krabiki." Clips for interconnecting frame elements.
- Suspensions for suspension of a profile to a "native" ceiling covering with their subsequent alignment.
- Self-tapping screws for metal 3,5x11 or 3,5x9, designed to connect frame parts to each other.
- Self-tapping screws for metal 6x60, equipped with anchor dowels. Required for attaching frame elements directly to the ceiling.
- Self-tapping screws MN25, with which drywall is screwed to the profiles.
And further. In the event that you are making a curly ceiling of drywall in a corridor or other room that is characterized by increased noise, we strongly recommend that you purchase a soundproofing material!
Installation of the first level frame
We fix the UD profile along the perimeter. We make sure that its lower part passes strictly along the line you beat off. If it turns out that the profile you bought does not have holes for fasteners, we drill them ourselves (again, every half meter). Fasteners are best made using plastic dowels and screws, since only they are able to provide maximum strength on a concrete surface (the most common option). Dowels with a diameter of about 6 mm are best used.
Profile mount
Now you need to fasten the U-shaped suspensions to the ceiling, using the lines you previously marked for orientation. It is advisable to use the dowels all the same. Important! Between the suspensions themselves, it is desirable to maintain a distance of not more than 60 cm. This is especially important if you are installing a curly ceiling made of drywall in the kitchen.
The fact is that in this room the ceiling often has a heavy load: moist air, attachments and more. We do not recommend saving on consumables in such a crucial matter!
A little bit about the kitchen
Useful advice. Optionally, flared dowels are suitable for suspensions, but if there simply weren’t any in the store, it is quite acceptable to use impact fasteners, just taking screws that meet your requirements more. This is especially important in the case when you make a curly ceiling made of drywall in the kitchen. Photos do not convey all the nuances, but you just have to keep one circumstance in mind.
The fact is that the air in this room is almost always characterized by high humidity. Drywall over time can get wet and increase its weight several times. If the fastenings are weak, the entire ceiling covering on one far from perfect day can simply collapse on your head.
Why do we recommend using flared dowels? The fact is that in the concrete floors of domestic houses you will inevitably stumble upon various voids. A cap of such fasteners will not allow them to fall into them, providing the most reliable, high-quality fastening.
One more thing. It is very important when screwing the suspensions to do this, using not the external “ears”, but the internal holes, since the ears under the weight of the ceiling will inevitably pull away, and quite significantly. All of your curly drywall ceiling, the installation of which had to be so meticulously and responsibly working, will immediately turn out to be completely skewed.
Installation of CD profiles
Once you're done with the suspensions, measure the required length of the CD profiles and carefully insert them into the UD mounts that you previously secured around the entire perimeter of the room. To expose them as accurately as possible, you can use the usual thread.
Pull it exactly across the CD, gently securing the ends of the twine to the UD profiles. To slightly sagging profiles do not pull the thread, lightly fasten them, bringing under them the ends of the suspensions. By the way, the thread can then be removed, as it will come in handy when installing the second level of the ceiling.
Carefully “calibrate” the profiles according to the twine level, simultaneously securing them with the help of small screws. Important! Before you begin to fasten sheets of drywall, be sure to make sure your work is thorough. In addition, it does not hurt to immediately lay the wiring for the recessed fixtures, extend the cable of the phone, cable TV and the Internet. The cavities that form the curved gypsum ceiling are ideal for this.
We fasten drywall
A standard GVL sheet has a length of exactly 250 mm. Note! Each sheet should lie on the CD profile so that it covers exactly half. The remaining space will be used for fastening the next GVL sheet. Note that this material is very difficult, and therefore we strongly advise you to find one or two assistants before work.
So, we begin to make a figured ceiling from drywall. Photos of such design decisions are available in this article, so before you start you can familiarize yourself with them and come up with your own version, which is very diverse and original.
How to do the first level?
Of course, you should first mark out the shapes of the future ceiling. This is done with an ordinary pencil. Immediately outline the level on the wall to which the second tier of your ceiling will descend. Screw the UD profile. If you need to bend it curly, to facilitate the process, simply cut the material every five centimeters.
You should know that you need to cut the profile from the side and the outer side of the direction in which the surface bend will go. This is how you need to do the first level, mounting the figured ceiling of drywall with your own hands. Photos from the article will help you understand some of the nuances of work.
After this, you can begin to assemble the frame, fastening it together with self-tapping screws of the appropriate type. After that, carefully screw the sheets of the GVL. Try to direct the screws strictly vertically, as otherwise the surface of the sheets will inevitably crumble! As we said above, you can pull the same thread to achieve the most accurate alignment with it.
Second curly level
Since it is difficult to fix pieces of drywall in places of winding lines, we recommend cutting it into small pieces, which are much easier to bend, giving them the desired shape, and fasten. At this stage, it is extremely important to carry out the installation of curved gypsum plasterboard ceilings as carefully as possible and not rush, because otherwise you risk spoiling the results of your work.
If in some places the profiles are hung more than half a meter, they must be additionally fixed with suspensions. Only then can they be carefully sewed into pieces of GVL, constantly cutting off the excess parts with an ordinary hacksaw. Vertical strips of drywall (before bending) should be cut from the outside of the bend. Once this work is done, you can begin to putty the ceiling.
If you do not have sufficient experience in installing
suspended plasterboard ceilings, we strongly recommend that you first completely assemble the frame, and only then sheathe both levels with GVL sheets. It is much easier to avoid mistakes. This is how gypsum plaster suspended ceilings are made.