From the article you will learn about what is the internal CV joint (left and right) on cars. Any machine is a complex mechanism that consists of many components. And all of them directly or indirectly affect the technical condition of the car, a comfortable stay in it, a safe ride. On all machines with front-wheel drive (or all-wheel drive) there is such a part as a constant velocity joint - a hinge of equal angular speeds. On different cars, it can have individual dimensions, shape, design features. But the general principle of operation for all joints of equal angular speeds is the same, regardless of whether it is installed on a used VAZ car or on a new German, American, Japanese production.
What is the hinge for?
These elements are installed on cars in which torque is transmitted to the front wheels. Inner CV joint left and right are the same. When buying new hinges, you need to pay attention only to the compatibility of the manufacturer's products with your car. The quality of the product depends on the price, as you know, the more expensive the hinge, the better. The constant velocity joint ensures a reliable differential connection in the gearbox and front wheel hubs .
Please note that the wheel hubs are well below the gearbox. Therefore, a simple shaft will not work to dock them. The driveshaft will also be ineffective - the loads are large, it is impossible to turn the steering wheel in the right direction when moving. The ideal solution is a constant velocity joint, which allows wheel drives to work in normal mode. And at the same time carry out steering.
Characteristic breakdowns
It is worth noting one feature - SHRUS inner left ("Logan" or VAZ for you, it does not matter) and the right wear out three times slower than the outer. This is due to the fact that it is affected by a much smaller load. As for breakdowns, they are the same for internal and external. The most common is the natural wear of the balls in the joint. Clearances increase, ball bearings take the form of an egg, which leads to the appearance of extraneous sounds, crunches, knocks.
Another common failure is the destroyed boot of the SHRUS. Despite the fact that it is made of thick and durable rubber, the service life is not very long. The fact is that the whole mechanism works in the immediate vicinity of the road surface. Consequently, all dirt, water, chemicals will necessarily get on the rubber. It will begin to dry out, cracks will appear, which will lead to the ingress of aggressive substances - water, sand and others. The result is a very quick wear of the balls in the mechanism, the SHRUS knocks, makes terrible sounds.
Tools and fixtures
To carry out the work you will need a standard set of tools - open-end wrenches, spanners, sockets. Screwdrivers, jacks, pliers - this is all that everyone should have in the garage. But you need special tools. For example, pullers for steering tips. In the event that you change the ball joint in parallel, a puller is also needed for it. But if you intend only to replace the internal CV joint (left or right), then these tools will not be required.
It is worth noting that another key is needed for repairs - at 30. It is with its help that you need to unscrew the nut on the hub. It is desirable that this key has a large lever, since the nut is tightened with a very large moment. Wheel chocks under the rear wheels are also needed to prevent the car from moving. The presence of reliable supports is also necessary. And most importantly - a strong vice.
Repair Preparation
Before starting work, you need to prepare the whole set of spare parts:
- Directly SHRUS.
- CV joint boot.
- Two clamps.
- Graphite based grease.
- Hub nut.
Only then can repairs be started. First, drain the gearbox oil. It is advisable to merge everything, it will be easier. In fact, it is enough to pour 2/3 of the total volume. In this case, when removing the hinge, oil will not spill from the holes. Install stops under the rear wheels. Then, using a hammer and a suitable punch, unscrew the nut, unscrew it, raise the repaired side and remove the wheel.
Dismantling the drive
To remove the drive from the car, you will need to perform a few simple steps:
- Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end by bending it with pliers.
- Unscrew the nut with a 19 key. If it does not respond, treat it with penetrating grease and try again after a few minutes.
- Install the puller on the knuckle, rotate the main bolt clockwise. Tap with a hammer if necessary. After several revolutions, the finger should come out of the fist.
- Remove the two bolts that secure the ball joint to the front wheel hub.
- That's all in practice, it remains only to knock out the SHRUS with the light left taps of the front left (internal), and only after it - the external one.
Removing and installing CV joints on the drive
Now it is time to dismantle the joints from the drive. Two methods can be used for this - the simplest and somewhat more complicated. The difference is whether a vise is used or not, and also whether you plan to use the hinges in the future as intended. If "no" is the answer to all the questions posed above, then you can, taking the entire drive in one hand and the heavy hammer in the other, apply sharp and strong blows until the hinge flies. Thus, both the external and internal CV joints are removed.
In order not to hold the drive in your hand, you can use a vise. Installation should be done more carefully - everything is new, do not spoil it. After all, it is easy to damage the thread, and this will affect your own safety. Therefore, when filling the hinge onto the axle shaft, be sure to use wooden spacers. They eliminate the likelihood that the thread will be damaged. Pay attention to the fact that you must first install the anthers on the half shaft, and only then put the CV joints.
Drive mounting
Now the crucial moment has come - installing the assembled drive on the car. This is nothing complicated, just repeat all the steps for disassembly in the reverse order. In general terms, it will look like this:
- Insert the internal CV joint (VAZ or another car, it does not matter) in the gearbox. Moreover, he must enter so that the circlip inside opens and locks the drive. Also make sure that the slots match.
- Now you need to pull the hub along with the stand outward to install an external grenade into it.
- Fix the outer CV joint with a nut.
- With two bolts, attract the ball bearing housing to the wheel hub.
- Replace the tie rod end and tighten the nut. Fix it with a cotter pin.
- Install the wheel and lower the side of the car to the ground.
- Tighten the hub nut with a wrench of 30. Using a hammer and a chisel, fix it to the thread.
Conclusion
In conclusion, it would be worth talking about the effectiveness of repairs. The fact is that you can install new CV joints. And you can buy the entire drive assembly. The question is what will be better. Of course, the first option is cheaper. Without difficulty, you can only replace the CV joint inner left (the price of the kit will be approximately 1000-1500 rubles, depending on the manufacturer). And the external grenade is quite acceptable in this case and not touch. But if you buy the entire drive assembly, then it will cost you at least 4000 rubles. Accordingly, two drives - this is at least 8000. But the reliability of the assembly, as a rule, will be much better than in the first case.
Also, do not forget that the splines on the drive axle shaft gradually wear out. The older your car, the more wear and tear. The optimal solution is to replace not only the joints, but also the axle shafts. And it’s more convenient to do this by purchasing the complete drive. But it all depends on the car. If it is old and easier to cut than to repair it, then why spend so much money? Indeed, in the market, when selling a car for an internal CV joint (left and right) they will no longer pay.