Primer for wallpaper

Wallpapering begins with the preparation of surfaces. It includes the following steps: if necessary (old walls), leveling with a stucco mixture, cleaning it from roughness, priming, filling (if required with a paint net for additional reinforcement) in two layers, cleaning the filling with sandpaper (or diamond mesh) after it has dried, primer on putty (each layer), marking according to a plumb or level for sticker wallpaper, cutting wallpaper with the selection of a picture.

Puttying is a necessary stage in preparing the walls for wallpapering. Due to this, we close microcracks, level the surface, make it smooth. Filling is carried out in several layers (depending on the condition of the walls) with the obligatory cleaning and priming of each. For cleaning sandpaper with a particle size of 80-120 is used. It is recommended to finish the process with a finishing putty that gives the best final result. The putty of the walls under the wallpaper should be the better, the thinner the wallpaper.

In the preparation process, we use primers twice - on plaster and putty.

Primers are slightly colored or transparent acrylic or water-polymer solutions for pre-treatment of surfaces prepared for further finishing. They are the most important component of the technological process of creating a new surface or restoration of the old. Depending on the basis of the primer there are:

- acrylic, used for processing almost any surface. They satisfy consumer requirements, do not have a toxic smell, complete drying takes two to five hours. Used as a primer for wallpaper;

- alkyd, most often used for application to wood. Thanks to them, the surface “swells” and is ready for finishing work. Drying - ten to fifteen hours;

- glyptal - for dry rooms. Drying time is twenty-four hours. It is used in most cases only for the surface layer of metals;

- phenolic - for the primary coating of wood and metal. Full drying is ten to twelve hours.

Primer for wallpaper due to its adhesion properties:

  • prevents the appearance of microcracks on the surface;
  • strengthens the base;
  • fastens porous surfaces and increases their moisture resistance;
  • reduces water absorption of the walls (makes the surface “wettable”), prepared for wallpapering;
  • improves adhesion properties (adhesion upon contact of surfaces of various properties);
  • biocidal primer under the wallpaper prevents the appearance of fungus and mold, eliminates the negative effects of surface pollution.

Priming promotes uniform application of glue and a decrease in its consumption.

Theoretically, it is possible to do without a primer for wallpaper, but the risk of peeling, peeling, and stains increases at times, so that trifling money savings do not justify themselves. The use of a primer is not necessary only if for the second layer an inconsistent finishing putty is used. When working on “problematic surfaces” a primer for wallpaper is strictly required. Also, its use is necessary if the surface of the base is too or insufficiently porous, dirty, dusty, dirty (old walls are used without special preparation).

Primer for wallpaper It is selected depending on the type of wallpaper. For example, paper and polymer wallpapers vary in adhesion to the surface of the walls and you should carefully choose the primer.

Preparation of ceilings for painting (the most common type of decoration) is more complex and painstaking than processing walls for wallpaper. This is explained by the fact that the paint does not hide minor defects and flaws, but rather “highlights” them. It is recommended that after the first layer of putty (cheaper) apply a better one, glue with a spider line (to prevent the appearance of microcracks due to humidity, temperature drops) and 2 more layers of putty.

As much as possible, you should carefully apply to the application, cleaning and priming of the final layer, performed by high-quality finishing putty. The primer for the ceiling is the same as for the walls.

When preparing the ceiling, it is advisable to apply directional light along the treated area. To do this, use a small spotlight or the usual "carrying". The directional light will promptly identify possible defects, protect it from imperfections.


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