In the modern cosmetic industry, there are several essential substances that are actively used in the manufacture of creams. One of them is arbutin. What it is and why it is used will be described in this article.
Its amazing cosmetic properties were discovered several centuries ago. Then plants rich in arbutin were used to whiten the skin. A huge amount of this substance is found in mulberry, blueberry, bearberry, lingonberry, incense and other plants. Arbutin in cosmetics is an indispensable thing. It is effective in removing age spots, due to the property of blocking the synthesis of melanin. Unlike other substances, arbutin does not damage skin cells. It also has a softening effect.
Arbutin - what is it and why is it added to cosmetic products?
Arbutin is a glycoside related to aryl-beta-glycosides. It can also be found under the name hydroquinone-beta D. It is obtained by chemical processes from plants, as well as by a chemical method. Arbutin is subdivided into structural isomers of alpha and beta-arbutin.
The alpha arbutin formula is more stable and effective. However, on the labels of cosmetic products it is rarely possible to find information about which particular arbutin is included in the composition. The organic compound arbutin is an ether. Most often it is obtained from bearberry leaves. Then combine with various vitamins and moisturizers. In this form, arbutin is added to various creams for whitening the skin.
Pure hydroquinone, which used to be popular in whitening products, is now recognized as a toxic substance of a carcinogenic type. In almost all civilized countries, its use is strictly prohibited. The properties of arbutin are not so strong, but it is a completely safe replacement for hydroquinone.
The process of extracting arbutin from plants
The effect of arbutin is reminiscent of the action of the vaccine, which is extracted from the leaves of lingonberry. Arbutin is mined in a simple way. The leaves of plants containing this substance boil in water. Then lead acetate is added, and thus the tannin settles in the resulting solution. Lead is removed from the solution using hydrogen sulfide. Arbutin crystals are separated from evaporated hydrogen. Finally, arbutin is treated with activated carbon and water. Arbutin has a bitter taste and dissolves well in warm water. Silky long needles can be seen under the microscope. This is crystallized arbutin (we already know what it is and what it is used for).
A new source of arbutin
Arbutin is a fairly expensive component of drugs and cosmetics. What it is and why it is needed has been described above. The fact is that in Russia this component is not produced, so the price is so high. The main supplier of arbutin is China. However, young scientists from Bashkiria have developed their own method of extracting arbutin from domestic raw materials, which could well compete with the foreign counterpart. It is obtained from the plant Serpukha Gmelin, which grows in the vicinity of Sibay.
Juice is obtained from a freshly picked plant with a juicer, then it is extracted with an organic solvent. The solution is filtered, after which crystalline arbutin is formed in it.
Useful properties of arbutin
This substance is indispensable in alternative medicine. It has pronounced antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Most often, arbutin can be found in drugs for the treatment of urinary and digestive systems. In the digestive tract, arbutin breaks down into hydroquinone and glucose. Thanks to hydroquinone, the necessary therapeutic effect is achieved. However, arbutin begins to show antiseptic and astringent properties only when it enters an alkaline environment. The main field of application of arbutin in medicine is the treatment of diseases of the urinary system.
Using bearberry leaves, rich in arbutin, can cure almost all diseases of the kidneys and bladder. There is also experience in the treatment of gastritis and thyroid gland.
The use of arbutin in cosmetics
Despite the fact that excessive pallor on the face is not always an indicator of aristocratic beauty, some women still prefer creams with a whitening effect. With age, age spots begin to appear on the face. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, they become more noticeable. Most women want to hide this flaw and resort to whitening creams. Among the many popular substances, arbutin can be singled out separately. The whitening properties that he is famous for are the safest for the skin. Arbutin is able to whiten freckles and age spots resulting from hormonal imbalances, prolonged exposure to the sun or aging. During skin whitening, the production of melanin (a pigment that determines the color of skin and hair) is reduced by inhibiting the enzyme responsible for its synthesis. Since arbutin is extracted from plants, it is very popular among many cosmetic companies that do not use aggressive components in their products. Moreover, there is evidence that in addition to the whitening effect, it also protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation, enhances immunity, and has an antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin.
However, using arbutin cream requires patience. The result is not immediately noticeable. After using for several weeks, or even months, you can see the first results.
Negative impact
In addition to benefits, any substance can also be harmful. Arbutin is no exception. Contraindications for the use of this tool are also available. Hydroquinone, which is the main component of arbutin, is a toxic substance. Despite the fact that glucose is also present in the composition, which makes arbutin not so poisonous, there is still no evidence regarding its non-toxicity. Therefore, only 2% arbutin content is considered safe for the skin. In some cases, an allergic reaction may occur. In this case, funds containing arbutin must be completely eliminated.