In some cases, a characteristic noise is heard from under the front wheels, which may indicate that a wheel bearing needs to be replaced. Many motorists immediately shrug their hands, saying, how to independently change the hub bearing. And sent to the service station . If you are talking about a new or very expensive car, then this is probably the most suitable choice. But if the car is already more than a dozen years old, then the bearing can be replaced on its own.
In order to replace this part yourself, you will need a wheel bearing puller. It consists of a powerful bolt, three thick washers (the largest of which with a nut), and an outer diameter ring. A large threaded washer is located on the outer size of the ring, and the middle one goes inside it (as compared to the outer diameter of the bearing it is slightly smaller). In the absence of a puller, you can use the tips and good hammers.
In order not to have to make the alignment, it is necessary to remove the shock absorber strut along with the hub and steering knuckle. This is nothing complicated, but the wheel alignment remains intact.
Detailed replacement of the wheel bearing:
- the hub nut is unscrewed by a head 30 and a good wrench with a pipe;
- The rack rod nut is lowered under the hood;
- the wheel is removed;
- the steering tip is disconnected from the steering knuckle;
- the brake mechanism is disconnected from the steering knuckle;
- the bolt to the hub of the brake disc is loosened and removed;
- the ball joint fastening is unscrewed from the knuckle, by pressing the lever the stand with the knuckle is removed to the side of the ball joint (the shock absorber remains hanging on the upper cup, since the nut on the shock absorber rod is not completely unscrewed);
- unscrew the bolts of the mudguard of the brake disc, are removed;
- the shaft of the outer CV joint is removed from the hub and, holding the strut from below, the nut of the rod of the shock absorber strut is unscrewed to the end;
- the shock absorber assembly is pulled out assembled with the hub and the knuckle, the bearing is pressed out from the hub using the same head with 30 and a two-fingered puller (it is possible with the help of mounts and a hammer), the hub is squeezed out of the bearing, while taking half of the inner bearing race with itself ;
- the bearing is squeezed out of the knuckle by the puller, while the retaining rings are previously removed;
- the hub is clamped in a vice, with the help of a hammer and a chisel, the remaining inner cage of the old bearing is knocked off the hub, a few cuts are made on the cage with a grinder (the inner casing from this usually breaks from the first blows);
- in some cases, some part of the bearing may remain on the hub, and to get rid of it, you will have to make an effort (but you need to be very careful, because if the landing surface of the hub is damaged, you will have to replace it).
Everything is disassembled and removed, all parts are cleaned of dirt and the replacement of the wheel bearing is almost complete, only the assembly remains:
- a snap ring is inserted from the inside of the fist;
- the front new wheel bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle with the help of a puller;
- a retaining outer ring is placed;
- the front hub is pressed into the bearing to the stop.
Next, the shock absorber assembly with a hub and a knuckle is assembled and put on the car.
Wheel bearing replacement at home takes a maximum of 3-4 hours.