After the events of October 1917, the perfume “Beloved Empress of the Empress”, later known as “Red Moscow”, almost sunk into oblivion. Only thanks to the efforts of the French perfumer August Michel, who remained to work in the nationalized production, the exquisite aroma not only remained, but also became a recognized brand both in the USSR and in the foreign market. There were no more eminent spirits in the Union and sovereign Russia. And no to this day. Consider the story of the perfume "Red Moscow" in the article.
Symbol of the era
Not every perfume, in spite of relevance and recognition, can boast of its rich history. Perfumes “Red Moscow”, along with port “777” and faceted glass, have become an integral part of a significant era. With their deep rich aroma, they were forever imprinted in the memory of every Soviet woman.
Exquisite perfumes from the factory "New Dawn" were first exhibited on store shelves in 1925. Their delectable aroma was quite unusual and easily recognizable. Connoisseurs especially highlighted his subtle tart notes and a lasting steady trail. The product that appeared caused a public outcry and was perceived far ambiguously, however, regardless of preferences, many sought to acquire a bottle. In Russian cinema and literature, there are more than once references to "Red Moscow", which corresponds to the spirit of that time - the era of unbending, strong and hardworking personalities. It is also worth adding that in terms of quality of composition and special properties, Red Moscow was not inferior to its foreign counterparts.
How it all started
The history of the creation of perfumes “Red Moscow” begins with the advent in the Russian Empire of a bright, fluffy brunette, whose surname was then famous for many years in all areas. Heinrich Brokar, son of a French perfumer, moved to Moscow in 1861, remaining under French citizenship. He started his own business within the walls of the former stable in Teply lane, producing high-quality cheap soap. Its production quickly grew and developed, since it was constantly replenished with an exclusive assortment: shampoos, lipstick, powder, and more. After the opening of a large factory in 1869 (on the corner of Arsenyevsky Lane and Mytnaya Street), the ambitious Frenchman launched a completely new line - the production of perfumes and colognes. And in the late 70s of the XIX century, Heinrich Brokar became a recognized leader in the Russian market.
In 1873, Princess Maria Alexandrovna (daughter of Alexander II) arrived from Moscow to the northern capital. At an official reception, she was presented with an unusual bouquet of artificial flowers, emitting a marvelous aroma. The originality was that each flower had its own individual smell, and in the bouquet they merged into a wonderful melody. The gift also contained bottles with the corresponding fragrances, which could be used both individually and together. Maria Alexandrovna liked the original offering, and Brokar received permission to become the supplier of the princess herself.
After the death of Heinrich Brokar (1900), the management of perfume production passed to his sons.
Fragrance Creation
In 1913, perfumer August Michel, invited from France to work at the Brocard factory, presented a new fragrance to the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty. In reality, he used the idea of ​​Brockard's composition of 1873, adding a few synthetic components to the composition. The result was highly appreciated by the Dowager Empress Maria Fedorovna (mother of Nicholas II), who wished a regular supply of noble spirits. The aroma of the recreated composition was perceived by connoisseurs as warm, a little bit bitter: notes of iris, cloves, jasmine and violet were distinctly manifested in it. The name “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet” was fixed to him. This perfume marked the beginning of the history of “Red Moscow”.
The spirits of the monarch person did not go to the masses immediately. Nevertheless, the capital's fashionistas were able to appreciate the sophistication of this product. It should be noted that in those days the use of toilet water and incense was the privilege of only the upper classes, for the rest of society they were inaccessible. After the revolution, the new government even considered them a relic of the bourgeois past and for some time perfume lines were even stopped.
Complex composition
The uniqueness of the empress’s favorite spirits was explained by the complex composition: over 60 components were involved in their manufacture and virtually no synthetic additives were used. The resulting aroma is often compared with a luxurious bouquet of flowers. The initial notes of the blend were based on the strict and sophisticated notes of neroli and bergamot, the middle note was jasmine, cloves, ylang-ylang and rose, and the train of perfume blossomed with iris, vanilla and tonka bean.
In 1924, when creating the perfumes "Red Moscow", the initial chemical composition was changed by 35%. The reason was that some of the ingredients and aromatic mixtures with which the Brokkar factory worked in 1913 were no longer in the Soviet Union. However, August Michel managed to maintain the main character of the composition: he emphasized the violet-iris accord with bergamot, orange blossom, clove and ylang-ylang.
Soviet time
With the advent of the new regime, August Michel was the only foreigner perfumer who remained to work in Russia. The factory "Brokar and Co." was nationalized, and on its basis the Zamoskvoretsky perfumery and soap factory began to function. According to some reports, the French master was categorical of a new unsound name and proposed his own version - “New Dawn”.
Perfume "Red Moscow" has become a kind of proletarian version of an elite perfume. The figured bottle resembled the shape of the Kremlin tower. And the shade of the packaging box was drawn by expressive gold lines. The author of the patriotic design of the fragrance, which has survived to the present day, was the artist Andrei Evseev.
In the early 1930s, Novaya Zarya was under the leadership of Vyacheslav Molotov's wife, Polina Zhemchuzhina. She also managed to contribute to the history of "Red Moscow". The creation of perfumes in the factory, according to one version, was realized with her direct participation, and with her light hand they got promotion to the masses. The pearl sincerely defended the position that Soviet women, in addition to soap, also needed perfumes and cosmetics.
The popularity of "Red Moscow"
The history of perfumes tells that at some point in time, to have this aroma in the arsenal was the height of chic. He belonged to perfumes of the highest price category. From 1930 to 1960, perfumes were a welcome gift for almost every Soviet woman. After the denomination of 1961, their cost was 6 rubles, which was a decent amount for a bottle of 50 ml. But, despite the cost, his favorite fragrance was available not only to a privileged society, but also to simple toilers. Red boxes were on sale everywhere, and owners of even the most modest salaries with pleasure bought them.
In the 70s, sky-high demand for "Red Moscow" begins to decline. Ladies over thirty, who are characterized by nostalgia and romance, prefer it more and more. For the younger generation, the loud floral smell is already becoming heavy. Young fashionistas are beginning to search for the sale of French perfumes "Klima", "Chanel No. 5" and "Fiji".
High mark
“Red Moscow” is a living classic whose love has been passed down from generation to generation. Together with the common people, the first persons of the country, political and media personalities smelled it. Such celebrities were used by such Soviet celebrities as Minister of Culture Yekaterina Furtseva, female cosmonaut Valentina Tereshkova, singer Lyudmila Zykina, actress Lyubov Orlova. The aroma was also highly appreciated far beyond the borders of the socialist state: perfume connoisseurs of Canada, France, the USA and Germany appreciated the analogue of the Empress’s Bouquet.
It is worth noting that negative reviews about the perfumes of "Red Moscow" were also available. But they spoke more boldly already in the late Soviet period, when there was an open opportunity to get acquainted with Western perfumes. Domestic spirits began to be exhibited as a symbol of standardization and an element of imposed taste. However, it is extremely doubtful only on this basis to blame several generations of women for total bad taste.
In the 21st century
History of perfumes “Red Moscow is still ongoing, and currently the treasured bottles are still on sale. In addition, the choice of the buyer is provided as a vintage perfume, and its modern version, which sounds much easier and softer, but still recognizable. The packaging design in red and white tones has remained unchanged, but against the backdrop of a large perfume variety looks very modest.
Today, legendary perfumes are positioned as a fragrance for confident, active and purposeful women. The person who has strangled them will certainly attract attention in any society. According to some domestic experts, despite all the concentration and cloyingness of “Red Moscow”, if it is used correctly and to the best of their ability, they are quite competitive with the French lines.
Interesting Facts
Here are some of them:
- The history of the origin of the perfume “Red Moscow” is not supported by any documentary evidence. Therefore, it has so many versions and conjectures.
- At the Brussels International Exhibition in 1958, Red Moscow won a gold medal.
- In certain circles, there is an opinion that the composition of “Red Moscow” is a duplication of the legendary fragrance “Chanel No. 5”.
- In 1943, after the turning point of the war (victory at Stalingrad), the renewed release of "Red Moscow" poured into the brought containers of buyers, since there were no bottles at the factory.
- There are many legends about the persistence of the fragrance of "Red Moscow". The perfume lasts for a long time and gradually opens on the carrier; during the day, the smell will change from pungent-tart to sweet-tender.
Now you know the history of the greatest domestic perfume.