For each model, the intricacies of cutting and tailoring are inherent, which give elegance to clothing. In such a suit a person feels comfortable and confident. The adjacent model of a jacket, coat or dress looks beautiful with the right kind of sleeve. It should have an appropriate shape and size. The most suitable design is a two-seam sleeve. We will consider his pattern in this article.
Two-seam sleeve: construction basics
First, take such measurements:
- sleeve length from the top of the joint to the bottom of the wrist;
- the length to the elbow of the sleeve from the top point;
- forearm girth at its widest value;
- girth on the lower part of the wrist.
To the obtained values should be added by okat for a loose fit of 4-5 centimeters, along the bottom line - 6 centimeters. These allowances may be more or less depending on the thickness of the material, model, customer desire.
A two-seam sleeve is used in models for sewing a variety of types of clothing. In a classic-style coat, only such details are used. In models of dresses and shirts, the basic pattern (base) is superimposed on the schematic structures of various styles. The two-seam jacket sleeve is used both in classic models and in jackets with turndowns.
Sleeve drawing on paper
Before constructing the pattern, you need to make additional measurements of the height of the armhole in front and behind the model. This value is important to determine correctly. To measure it, under the inner part of the shoulder bend (armpit) of the customer you need to place the ruler at a right angle (parallel to the floor). It is required to determine the length from the highest point of the shoulder joint by the front okat to the ruler and by the sleeve okat on the back. These measurements are needed to build the patterns of the shelf and the back of the product.
The scheme of building step by step
The actions look like this:
- On a large sheet of white paper, we begin to build a drawing using a triangle and a pencil. We retreat from the upper left corner of 5-6 centimeters and draw two lines at the right angle to the edge of the right side and bottom.
- The top left point of the rectangle is denoted by A.
- From it down the line, the length of the sleeve with an increase of 1 centimeter is laid down and is indicated by the letter N. From the same point A, you need to lay down the value of the depth of the armhole. In the drawing of the base of the bodice there are two of its meanings: for the foreground and from the back. To determine the height line of the armhole on the drawing, these numbers are summarized, divided in half and 2 centimeters are subtracted from the resulting figure.
- This value is laid down from A and denoted by point G. From the top A, another value is applied - measurement to the elbow. It is indicated by the letter L.
- According to the rectangle constructed on the sheet to the right, draw straight lines under the triangle from the indicated points (to accurately determine the right angle).
- When constructing the armholes of the front bodice of the product along the ridge in front, there is a point of contact with the parameters of the depth of the armhole and ridge at chest level. This value for each pattern is individual, is laid up from G and is indicated by a marker (control point of the junction). A two-seam sleeve is sewn to the bodice with these markers in mind.
- To the right of the vertical line on which the points are marked, half the sleeve width is laid (taken measurement), 4 centimeters are added for free fitting. A vertical line is drawn through the point of this measurement to the elbow line and is indicated by the signs ₁, ₁, ₁. From , 4 centimeters are measured, from - 2,5 centimeters and it is designated ₂, ₂, ₁. Connect the dots in a smooth line.
Build okat
We continue to apply the pattern:
- The value of the upper line ₁ is divided in half and indicated by the letter C. On the right side, 1 centimeter is measured and P. is indicated. This is the second control point, which, when connected to the bodice, will coincide with the shoulder seam. From P, a perpendicular line descends to the G-line, denoted by G₃.
- The AG line is divided into three equal segments. From A the third part of the value is set aside, denoted by ₁. A horizontal line is drawn through this point at the intersections with the vertical - ₂, and with the vertical ₁ - ₃. The value of A₁G₁ is divided in half, denoted by O₄. From this point to the right side 3.5 centimeters are laid aside for all sizes, indicated by ₅.
- The length of O₁ O₂ is divided into three parts. The first is delayed from O₁ to the right, denoted by O₆. Points C, O₆, P, O₃ are connected. These segments are divided in half from the indicated ₇, ₈, then we measure at a right angle upwards by 1 centimeter. The resulting points are denoted by ₉, ₁₀. A smooth line connects: ₂, , ₆, ₉, , , ₁₀, ₃, ₅.
Build the bottom of the sleeve
For drawing, the value of the taken measure of the girth of the wrist is taken, 6 centimeters for free fit are added to it and divided in half. From to the right side, the obtained value is measured, ₂ is designated. ₃ is obtained when postponing along the line upwards of 2 centimeters. From the extreme ₁ 2 centimeters are measured, ₄ is designated. The points ₄, ₃, ₂ are connected, a smooth bottom of half of the sleeve is obtained.
We continue to build:
- The next step will be a smooth connection of ₅, ₁, ₂. A marker draws a line along the points. It turns out the basis of a two-seam sleeve with a top ok.
- The lower part of the sleeve will be drawn on the same sheet with a different color of pencil. 4 centimeters are measured from and ₁ to the right side, ₄, ₅ are set. On the elbow line, 5.5 centimeters are measured to the right, it turns out L₃. These three points are connected by a smooth line.
- 3.5 centimeters are measured from the indicated ₄ to the left side, and ₁₁ is obtained. From L₁ to the left, 3.5 centimeters are laid aside. It will be ₄. 2 centimeters are measured to the left of ₂, and ₆ is obtained. On a vertical line from ₃ 1,5 centimeters are postponed, ₁₂ is designated. The points ₄, ₁₂, ₁₁ are connected by a sagging line.
In another color of the pencil, circle the resulting outline of the lower part. The constructed pattern pattern needs to be transferred to a blank sheet of paper.
Where fit sleeves are used
In all styles of clothing, where narrow parts are provided, a two-seam sleeve is used. Such a cut looks beautiful not only in models of dresses, jackets and jackets, but also in items of the upper wardrobe. A properly sewn sleeve lends elegance to the model.
Two-seam set-in sleeve
To build such a model, the main view is taken - with a okat.
Next, we carry out such actions:
- The front side of the okat is placed to the left of the figure.
- 4 centimeters are laid off from the edge along the line of its depth and the perpendicular line drops to the lower segment.
- One and a half centimeters are laid along the elbow line in both directions and the top point of the perpendicular line is connected with markers along the elbow line.
- In the lower part of the sleeve, two segments of the elbow groove converge at one point on the bottom of N.
- Scissors cut a recess and move to the right. For fitting, you can attach this cut part to the right side of the pattern. The two-sutural set-in sleeve in the diagram must be correlated in width in the region of the forearm. If the indicators do not coincide with the measurements taken, the recess can be expanded or reduced.
- The right value from the center to the extreme point is taken from the central vertical line of the diagram horizontally to the depth of the okata and is divided in half, point K.
- The vertical drops from the top edge to the bottom of the sleeve. On the lower (H) horizontal at the intersection of the vertical line (K), 3.5 centimeters are measured on both sides. The resulting groove is cut from the top of the ridge to the bottom in a smooth line. It turns out two parts of the sleeve.
To build a two-seam from a single-seam sleeve, the basic scheme is taken. Marking is carried out on the pattern of the set-in part. Recesses are measured and built, which are cut from the edge of the ridge to the base of the bottom. The resulting parts are connected with adhesive tape for fitting.
Ironing and stitching
We pass to the final stage. Before stitching parts and joining the product, proper processing of the two-seam sleeve is required. The first is ironing. The upper part on the front side (along the bend of the arm) is stretched under the influence of moisture and steam. After joining, the seam is smoothed out on a narrow stand in stages, in three parts, through gauze. The appearance of the sleeve depends on the correctness of this and the next manipulation.
The other suture, which will run along the elbow line, needs, on the contrary, to shrink. When shortening, this line is picked up, then with the help of moisture and steam it is not smoothed, but the straightened folds are pressed. A barbed or mesh fabric specially designed for hot processing of fleecy products is used for ironing at the external seams.