The development of specific features of the folk costume is influenced mainly by climatic, socio-historical factors and the national mentality. Also, the neighborhood and relationships with other ethnic groups and their cultural and everyday life features play a significant role in the formation of one or another stylistic image of a folk costume. In any case, national clothing is a synthesis of folk art. To draw a folk costume in stages will be a good way to remember its main features. After all, clothing is the face of an ethnic group, a mirror reflecting its life and beliefs.
In modern society, with an increase in interest in their culture, people tend to find out what Russian folk costumes are, how to draw them. In order to fully satisfy your interest, you need to master some theory of the origin of clothing. For example, you can consider the female or male Russian folk costume, draw it in stages by watercolor, thereby securing the presented image on paper.
The history of Russian folk clothes
The history of Russian costume dates back many centuries. Statistical practically unchanged conditions of peasant life, climatic and natural living conditions, religious environment and folk beliefs formed a clothing style that was maximally adapted to hard work.
Many artists are wondering how to draw a Russian folk costume. To do this, you should know its specific features. Firstly, such features are lightness, functionality, ease of dressing. Each type of activity has its own clothes - from the undercoat and Cossack to the long-cased sheepskin coat and Armenian. The very activity of everyday activities set the limits for cutting and sewing clothes - a wide wedge was inserted into the seams, and rhomboid gussets were inserted into the armpits of the shirts. The clothes had a wide smell and were without buttons - they were tied with a sash, and any member of the family could put a zipoon and a zipper on a shirt or a sheepskin short coat at any time.
The design of the sundress, shirt, robe, armenian and zipuna practically did not require the use of scissors, and the excess material was extremely insignificant.
So how to draw a Russian folk costume, guided by knowledge of its lineup?
Female and male Russian national costumes
Russian folk costume differed by gender, age and territorial affiliation. You need to know this in order to imagine what Russian folk costumes look like, how to draw them.
Children's clothing repeated the cut and decoration of an adult, but was sewn smaller and made of cheaper fabric. In summer, children wore long-field shirts, tied with belts.
To draw a Russian folk costume for men, it is useful to find out that men's clothing was of the same type. Her complex included a shirt, belt, ports, upper and lower caftan, bast shoes or boots, and a headdress.
The choice of the position of the suit, its features of cut and color
In order to draw a Russian folk costume step by step, it is necessary to remember that the costume among different strata of the population differed not only in the number of details, but also in the variety of materials, having the same cut of the individual components.
So, a large number of draperies and folds creates an additional volume of clothing, giving it the illusion of layering. Therefore, the artist should avoid compositional congestion of the silhouette, and if this congestion still takes place to be tailored, it is necessary to minimize the number of folds.
Fabrics were always dyed with vegetable dyes - the predominance of red is explained by the presence of madder weed as a dye in each village, while green dyes were brought exclusively from China. This is important to voice in order to show how to draw a Russian folk costume.
Drawing lines of a mannequin
Before drawing a Russian folk costume in stages, it is necessary to determine the angle of the transmitted image and its technical and stylistic qualities.
For a more open "panoramic" type of clothing, it is recommended to depict it in the "three quarters" turn, for the construction of which the costume will be rotated along the y axis of the ternary coordinate system, that is, it will be turned 95 degrees to the observer. This view allows you to simultaneously show the object in full view and in profile. You can copy the Russian folk costume (photo), drawing it is quite simple.
From this angle, as presented below, the reliefs and decorations of such women's hats, such as a kitsha or kokoshnik, will be perfectly visible.
Physiological features of the mannequin
So, the midline of the dummy’s body will lie on the y axis: shoes should be depicted along it — for women it is represented by low-heeled shoes, boots or bast shoes, and for men - boots or bast shoes.
Three lines are arbitrarily drawn: the shoulders, chest, and pelvic girdle. Then, two ovals, respectively, of male and female anatomy, are built along the limb belts . To draw a Russian folk costume in stages, it is necessary to supplement the female mannequin of one more line - at the level of the midline of the chest - it will indicate the angle of the female breast. Then all the limb belts and the shoulder line are connected by a body contour curved in an arbitrary waist.
When asking a question about how to draw a Russian folk costume step by step, it should be remembered that two of the huge variety of women's clothing can be distinguished: South Russian and North Russian.
Therefore, in order to draw the Russian folk costume in stages, the territorial model of the costume is first selected: for the South Russian - an embroidered shirt, apron, belt, checkered ponev, a shortened shoulder shirt, a magpie headdress; for North Russian - a shirt, a long sundress, a belt, a murderer, a kokoshnik.
Methods of practical decoration of Russian folk costumes
From ancient times, Russians used embroidery and patterned weaving to decorate clothes. Patterned weaving refers to a three-dimensional pattern with a convex (mostly red) ornament located in stripes across the fabric.
When using the pattern sewing technique, it is very difficult to convey the round outlines of the pattern, so the motifs of the ornament are geometrized and straightforward, and the circle motif in sewing was transmitted using rhombuses or squares placed at an angle. On the combined festive clothes, an ornament was made in the form of stitching, embroidery, sewn ribbons, small appliqués, located at the shoulder seams, the background of the background and the like, thus marking the structural and functional elements. The ornament was used only small, geometric, rarely vegetable. On underwear, the ornament performed primarily a protective function, built on folk superstitions, and covered the gates, cuffs of sleeves and the hem of the shirt.
Drawing decorated pieces of clothing
On both mannequins in the shoulder area, a shirt is drawn with long sleeves falling down, the cuffs of which or the sleeves themselves are covered with a girdling pattern of red and white stripes. A similar pattern should cover the shirt collar - for women it is round or finely assembled, for men oblique.
At the level of the female chest, a bodice of sundress is drawn, the straps of which, trimmed with a yellow or red ornament, are drawn to the shoulders. The bodice of the sundress rounds the rounded female breast, descends to the very bottom in two lines. The hem of the dress can be covered with horizontal or vertical patterns.
The men's shirt continues to the waist level, where it is intercepted by the circumference of the girdle, and then draws on. Its lower edge is also covered with ornaments.
Below the line of the pelvic girdle are drawn the legs of the ports, reaching the levels of the ankles.
The shirt is white, the dress is more often red, less often - green or blue; ornament - red, green or yellow, less often blue. Men's ports were made of gray or dark brown cloth.
A kokoshnik, drawn in the shape of a crescent moon, decorated with arbitrary scallops and lines, a rounded or rectangular colored pattern, is perfect for a women's sundress. Patterns should always be small and located along the hem line of a dress or shirt.
Applying light shadows
To fully draw a Russian folk costume with a pencil, you need to impose a light hatching of shadows. She will pass along the edge of the shirt along the sleeves, a single spot from the chest line to the middle of the pelvic girdle. It is recommended to put several folds along the sleeves and vertical planes - there the pattern will bend and a shadow will be applied.
The cell picture should be applied to the already tinted plane with a hard pencil. In planes adjacent to the viewer, the pattern stands out with strokes of increased softness.
Picturesque watercolor painting
The color saturation of the paint on the brush must be checked on the plane of the white palette before each stroke. First, the required color interval is filled in, then a second tone is applied to emphasize the emphasis of perspective and the color saturation of the image.
For the most part, Russian folk clothes were made of shiny smooth fabrics, acquiring bright glare in the sun. Therefore, it is recommended not to touch in advance the color of the surfaces that stand out in the sun, and make the tone for them with a brush from the paint by repeatedly washing it.