Perfume is a “song” composed of notes. But the gamut is not 7 musical signs, but various variations of aromas. In the description of perfumes always appears "pyramid", which displays the fragrant composition of perfumery. What are the smells? What place do they occupy in the "pyramid" and how do they influence the smell resistance?
What is a fragrance note?
No matter what the smells of perfumes are, they all have a certain persistence. This resistance is determined by the essential oils that make up the perfume. A note of aroma is an indicator of the volatility of essential oils, the rate of its evaporation.
Many people noticed that there are perfumes that exude a fragrance for only a few hours, or even less. And there are those whose aroma lasts 2-3 days.
This duration depends on the fact that ether is a multicomponent substance consisting of 120-500 components. And each component also has its own volatility. And since the concentration of such substances in the essential oil is different, the volatility of the ether is different.
In modern perfumes, a whole "musical notation" of smells has already been developed. It contains aromas in a certain sequence, the so-called scale. Similar to the construction of musical chords, fragrant compositions are also built - adhering to a certain sequence and necessarily making up a harmonious “sound”.
Essential Oils
What are the smells of perfume for men and women? Persistent and quickly evaporating. And if you are lucky enough to become the owner of an incredibly persistent perfume (several days), then they contain essential oils of lower notes.
They can be compared with the bass in the orchestra, whose function in the musical composition is to hold it. The lower notes are revealed by the very latest, creating the very fragrant train. They also inhibit the evaporation of odors with rapid volatility.
Essential oils of a lower note include:
- patchouli;
- fennel;
- incense;
- cloves;
- fir;
- basil;
- pink tree;
- juniper;
- tea tree.
As a rule, they are painted in a dark shade and have a thick consistency. By themselves, they have a pungent smell, saturated, some even cloying. And if an oil drop of this note falls on the paper, then it will not evaporate and will not lose its flavor for several weeks. Therefore, in perfumes (perfumes, eau de toilette, etc.), the concentration of essential oils of the lower note is low - about 5%. But this is quite enough for flavor.
Medium Essential Oils
Essential oils of medium notes determine what perfumes smell for women and men. They are the basis of spirits. The entire aromatic composition is built on them, but they appear only after the first notes, which quickly evaporate.
Middle note essential oils include:
- geranium;
- jasmine;
- the Rose;
- neroli;
- ylang-ylang;
- lavender;
- sage.
In the composition of aromatic means, essential oils of medium notes make up from 40 to 80% of the total composition. Such substances are extracted from flowers and green parts of plants.
If you conduct an experiment and drop a drop of such oil on paper, then it will evaporate in a few hours, and some in a day or two. But in the composition of perfumes, they are persistent in just a few hours.
In addition, some mid-note oils are powerful aphrodisiacs that arouse sexual desire in the opposite sex. But other oils, on the contrary, have a calming and relaxing effect.
Top note essential oils
Such substances contain substances with a high degree of volatility. That is, the essential oils of the top note will evaporate very quickly. But it’s they who are the entry into the aromatic composition, it is the buyer who “hears” them first of all when choosing perfumes.
Top notes essential oils include:
- lemon;
- orange;
- mint;
- Melissa;
- rosemary;
- eucalyptus;
- thyme.
In the composition of perfumed funds, the first notes make up only 10-15% of the total composition.
In the perfume, the aroma of the first notes lasts only a few minutes, the maximum is an hour. And in an experiment with a drop of oil and paper, the first evaporates in a few hours.
In addition to perfumes, essential oils of the top of the "pyramid" are used in aroma procedures:
- inhalation;
- bath;
- oil burner.
Aroma Classification
In various classification systems, there are 20-30 categories of aromas. But to take on faith such a unit is not worth it, because this opinion is subjective. Indeed, one perfumer can “hear” several aromas, like one, and another perfumer can smell several “shades” in one smell.
But one thing is for sure - all flavors can be classified into several categories that will define something common, similar in them. Yes, and there are several classifications.
Next, we present more simple and well-known categories of what smells (types) are.
Floral
Floral aromas are those in which the smells of flowers prevail: one or a whole bouquet. Such aromas can be exclusively floral, but most often the smells of flowers are “seasoned” with additional citrus or woody notes. This is also the most numerous category of aromas.
However, comparing identical perfumes with a similar composition of smells, one cannot fail to notice their difference. The thing is that the same floral aroma is perceived by different perfumers differently. And the number of identical components can differ in two types of analogues.
Additionally, floral aromas may differ in characteristics. Perfumes can be:
- cool
- dry
- lyrical;
- soft;
- bright;
- temperamental;
- calm;
- sentimental;
- saturated;
- subtle;
- sad etc.
And the character of spirits is a reflection of the mood in which the perfumer was at the time of their creation.
Examples of basic floral notes:
- the Rose;
- iris;
- jasmine;
- peony;
- tuberose;
- lily of the valley;
- violet.
Eastern
What are the smells of perfume? Characteristics are the first thing that reflects their differences. One of these characteristics is oriental style. Oriental aromas cannot be confused with anything, they are not lost "in the crowd" of smells that make up the perfume composition.
Oriental aromas are:
- brightness;
- sensuality;
- sexuality;
- spice;
- sweetness;
- saturation.
Most oriental perfume fragrances are powerful aphrodisiacs that enhance their attractiveness when in contact with the skin.
But oriental perfumes for girls are smells combined with floral and aromatic notes.
The smells of the east are:
- exotic ambergris;
- patchouli;
- sandalwood;
- cistus;
- vanilla.
The aromas of the orient in perfumes are their trail that leaves an alluring aftertaste from the perfume. And always, such smells are characterized by increased resistance (from several hours to a couple of days).
Citrus
Citrus zest (bergamot, lemon and mandarin) - a source of essential aromas. And the fruit extract of the bitter orange flower complements all this fruit creation. Citrus aromas are combined with floral and woody, but often complement oriental aromas.
However, perfume lovers based on a citrus smell should understand that they are buying a product with a low resistance index (only 3-5 hours). But such perfumes are good in the summer, when you really want more freshness.
The main citrus flavors are:
- lemon;
- bergamot;
- grapefruit;
- orange;
- mandarin;
- lime.
In its pure form, the aroma of citrus perfume looks cheap. But the composition of several different smells gives the aroma a special piquancy.
Fruit
Perfumes with a clear note of sweet fruit are built on a berry basis. The durability of such products is average - from 4 to 8 hours, which is more than citrus and floral aromas.
Fruit smells are suitable for young girls with a sensitive romantic nature. When creating perfumes, extracts are taken as a basis:
- raspberries;
- cranberries;
- melons
- watermelon;
- green apple;
- pineapple
- exotic flowers with light reminders of vanilla, tart cinnamon and beans.
Most often, perfumes with a predominant fruity odor are used in the daytime, preferably in the summer.
Aromatic
The second name of aromatic fragrances is fern. If you are the owner of this aroma, then know that it is based on extracts of oak moss. But this is not the only source of aromatic fragrance. Aromatic odors are:
- lavender;
- coumarin;
- geranium;
- smells of morning dew;
- freshly cut grass;
- morning forest, etc.
Fern smells are perfume smells for guys. There are female options, but most of such perfumes are unisex. These are tart, refreshing, audacious aromas that perfectly emphasize the youth of its owner. But for older people they are not contraindicated, only in combination with oriental notes. And for youth, a combination with fruity or floral aromas is more preferable.
Chypre
The interesting name "chypre" is due to the Greek island of Crete, or rather the species of oak moss that grows there. Its smell itself is brutal, but in combination with the aromas of sweet fruits, citrus fruits, oriental spices and flowers, it gives a softer, woodier smell.
Chypre spirits are considered universal, but still they are more preferred by men. Especially good is men's perfumery in combination with tobacco shades, suede or leather. But lovers of chypre will also benefit from notes of jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, as well as perfumes with hints of bergamot and patchouli.
Spirits of chypre nature are equally suitable for an evening or solemn exit. Their aroma is rich, gives its owner status, aristocracy.
The first chypre perfumes consisted of oak moss, patchouli, bergamot and incense gum. This smell gives at the same time sweetness, bitterness and freshness. After that, one or more of these aromas are present in all created chypre perfumes.
Chypre odors have medium durability, which intensifies when it comes in contact with skin and hair, and weakens on clothing.