How does water smell? Of course, freshness and coolness. But still something else ... This is the thawed ice of the Norwegian fjords, and the tropical lagoon that has absorbed the smell of exotic flowers, and a powerful rush of the ocean, and a peacefully murmuring fountain in the middle of the Calabrian garden. Thierry Wasser, the leading perfumer of the Guerlain fashion house, decided to create an allegory of water, which is called Aqua Allegoria. She appeared in the last year of the twentieth century. What is she like? As the creator himself put it, water is an element of absolute freedom. And this is her main motto. Otherwise, water can be very different. This was confirmed by Thierry Wasser, releasing five fragrances for Jean-Paul Guerlain in one fell swoop. But that was only the beginning of the journey. Perfumer's “World Tour” every spring is guaranteed to give fans of Guerlain a new fragrance. We will consider this palette in our essay. Is this collection suitable only for connoisseurs of aquatic aromas? Most probably not. Life-giving water only creates a background, mood. But in each aroma unique notes interweave, inspired by nature itself. This is a new concept of freshness, enclosed in an original bottle stylized as a honeycomb, offers each time a completely new eau de toilette, which reveals the unknown facets of the aquatic ease of being.
The main collection. Fresh herbs and their smell
As already mentioned, in 1999, five fragrances of Guerlain Aqua Allegoria were immediately released: Herba Fresca, Ylang and Vanilla, Rosa Manifica, Pamplelune and Velor Lavender. We begin our review with the first toilet water listed. The name "Herb Fresco" can be translated as "freshly cut grass." Reviews add: in the early morning. When the newly rising sun had not yet had time to drink all the dew. How nice to walk barefoot on this soft grass and inhale its spicy smell! It is a laid-back fragrance combining sophistication and freshness. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca Eau de Toilette is for lovers of herbal and aquatic odors. It combines the coolness of morning dew, mint freshness, the brightness of citrus fruits and the aroma of wildflowers. Perfume opens with sour notes of lemon. A few sharp edges of the smell gently fringes pink clover. Green tea and peppermint dominate the heart of this fragrance. And in a light veil like a bride’s veil, gentle lily of the valley and cyclamen are heard. Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca is an eau de toilette with which the dream of a modern person comes true - harmonious dissolution in nature and unity with it.
This New Year: Calabrian Bergamot
What kind of aroma is this? The Lombard city of Bergamo in Northern Italy presented the world with flowers of citrus plants, which are increasingly used by perfumers for compositions, where the main emphasis is on freshness. Have you probably tasted the delicious Earl Gray tea (Gray Earl)? Bergamot is also present in the drink. But under the generous scorching sun of Calabria (southern Italy), these flowers got a new sound. It is a bright elixir. It was as if he had absorbed the southern sun, recalls the collection of peaches on a hot summer day, the fragrance of orchards. Citrus fruits have been repeatedly used in perfumes in the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria series: Mandarine Basilic (2007), Grapefruit (one of the fragrances of the first collection, 1999), Fresh and Green Lemon (2003 and 2014, respectively), Amazing Orange (2005). The pyramid of smells at the Calabrian Bergamot novelty is dynamic and truly delightful. It is dominated, of course, by this orange blossom with sweet notes, but it is so multifaceted! All shades of bergamot seem to shimmer in the rays of the Calabrian sun. The perfumer flavored the toilet water with the greens of dewy herbs and warm spices. Reviews characterize Bergamot Calabria as a citrus-chypre aroma. A small fraction of musk makes eau de toilette popular not only among connoisseurs of aquatic aromas, but also sweet oriental perfumes. Therefore, it is suitable for lovers and freshness, and "stuffy night."
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic
This perfume composition appeared in the spring of 2007 with the light hand of Marie Salaman. Many people still do not understand how fresh, sweet and such energetic mandarin can be combined with spicy basil greens, which are often added to salads. However, this duet unexpectedly sounds very harmonious. In addition, reviews claim that in addition to mandarin and basil, a whole chorus of aromas is involved in the composition. Already in the overture, the sensitive noses of the users caught the notes of orange blossom, bitter orange, green tea, ivy and a sweet tangerine called "clementine". In the heart of the perfumery composition, a duet of the main characters appears on the front of the stage. But he is barely audible singing chamomile and peony. The base of this toilet water is like an expensive perfume. The feminine and deep notes of ambergris and sandalwood are heard in it. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic Eau de Toilette belongs to the class of aromatic citrus flavors. It was created exclusively for the warm season, when the body asks for coolness. The fragrance can and should be worn at work. Citruses are energized, perfume does not choke even in confined spaces of the office. Basil brings interesting spicy notes to the sweetness of mandarin. So beautiful and happy girls enjoy every moment of life. Reviews notice that the perfume is surprisingly resistant to the concentration of eau de toilette.
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita
Last spring (2016), Thierry Wasser surprised fans of his talent with brilliant and discouraging immediacy. He mixed a juicy and sweet pear (in French Pera) with a summer drink that perfectly quenches thirst - “granite”. The fruit cocktail came out surprisingly balanced. Soft pink liquid is the very essence of warm freshness. Eau de toilette will appeal not only to lovers of aquatic, but also sweet, fruity aromas. To describe the sound of perfume, you must first explain what granite is. Ice is crushed into small crystals, fruit syrup is poured into this snow - in this case, a juicy green-yellow pear. The composition is bordered by the citrus sound of bergamot, lemon and grapefruit. They seem to enhance the sound of small granite ice floes. But the pear (in the company of apricot and osmanthus) gradually takes its toll and envelops everything with a velvet edging, creating the verge of aroma. A floral bouquet of hedione and orange blossom gently wedges into the fruit sound. A train of Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita with cedar notes as if transfers us to the mossy carpet of the southern forest. In the base notes, chypre chords are interwoven with white musk and the amazing smell of expensive dressed leather.
"Grapefruit"
Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune Eau de Toilette was part of the first 1999 collection. There is evidence that the scent was created by the master and the head of the fashion house, Jean-Paul Guerlain. But it could also be perfumer Matilda Laurent. The name "Grapefruit" is simple and concise. But do not assume that the perfume composition is so poor that it consists only of this one ingredient. No, a whole grove of citrus fruits is felt in this choir. Bergamot beautifully fringes the astringency of grapefruit. From the first notes, the fragrance takes you to the citrus garden at dawn. A huge sun rises and immediately warms the earth, scaring night shadows. Night rain still flickers with pearl drops on the dark leaves of citrus trees. But gradually the sensual heart of the perfumery composition opens. In it, leaves of black currant harmoniously combine with neroli and petitgrain. A sharp beginning, an intimate heart and a surprisingly soft, warm and sweet finish - this is how users describe this fragrance. Vanilla and patchouli are felt at the finish. The sensual energy of Grapefruit was later revealed in the Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic. Reviews inform that this eau de toilette combines sharp and velvety notes, vibrating vitality and amazing peace. In this first creation of the “Aqua Allegory” by “Guerlain”, the advantages of grapefruit are emphasized favorably, and the accompanying components enhance the feeling of freshness and aquatic depth.
"Solar Lily"
As the Aqua Allegoria Mandarine was the repetition and development of Grapefruit, Lys Soleia was created by Thierry Wasser in 2012 to remind fans of the fashion house of the first fragrance, Ylang Ylang and Vanilla. The composition belongs to the group of floral and fruit. The perfumer begins with a real whirlwind of morning freshness. Top notes vibrate with zest of amalfi lemon and bergamot, gradually giving way to crispy palm leaves. In the heart of the fragrance, as stated in the title, a sunny yellow lily sounds . Its pleasant, but rather pungent odor softens the exotic ylang-ylang. Notes of sweet and juicy tropical fruits are added to this floral bouquet. The fragrance has rather unexpected base notes. They sound exquisite tuberose, sweet musk and warm, as if homemade vanilla. This trail as if transfers us over the water surface of the turquoise lagoon to the warm sand of a snow-white beach, and the tropical sun touches our skin with rays. But morning freshness remains. These are perfumes, reviews assure us, created to be worn during the summer holidays “on the southern shores”.
Teazzurra
How cool is cold green tea with chamomile on a hot summer day! Its unobtrusive light aroma was embodied in the perfumery composition Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra from Guerlain. The fashion house could not stay away from the trend of creating unisex perfumes. And this fragrance is equally suitable for both women and men. Eau de toilette was launched in 2015 by Thierry Wasser. Already one bottle with a clear liquid and as if “misting” with droplets evokes associations with such a long-awaited coolness. The bottle is crowned with a mesh for the line in the form of golden bee honeycombs. The aroma itself is classified as citrus aromatic. Indeed, the entire overture of the perfume composition is dedicated to grapefruit, lemon, bergamot and watery yuzu. Green tea with chamomile dominates the heart of the fragrance. But as expected with high-quality eau de toilette, a few more are added to the two main components - the background ones. So, the delicious sound of tea and chamomile is complemented by white jasmine. A train of perfume is woven from sweet and soft threads of musk and vanilla, which are beautifully edged with a can. Reviews claim that toilet water transfers its owner to a flowering Russian meadow. The fragrance is suitable for summer use by both sexes.
How Green Lemon Smells
Limon Verde was created in 2014 by Thierry Wasser as a result of his trip to Brazil. Among the thirty-five “Allegories of Water”, Caribbean lemon (aka lime) takes a key place. Citrus fruits are somehow present in most toilet waters of this line. In this regard, Lemon is a typical representative of its family. But this fragrance is somewhat elusively reminiscent of Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita, although there are no mention of pears in the list of components. The fact is that the perfumery composition was inspired by the Brazilian Caipirinha cocktail. But Wasser only took the "mood" of the caipirinha, and did not repeat it in the concentration of eau de toilette. A Brazilian cocktail is made from lime, cashews, ice and cane brown sugar. The perfume pyramid “Lemon Verde” uses slightly different ingredients. The composition opens with a powerful and fresh lime chord. Its slightly bitter smell as if awakens all sensitive receptors and allows us to fully enjoy the aromas of the "heart". And in it, along with green notes, tropical fruits and a lot of blue figs are felt. All this is flavored with a pleasant smell of cane sugar. The base of the aroma is completely dominated by tonka bean. Eau de toilette is declared unisex. But reviews say that this fragrance is too feminine, delicate, without sharp edges of the male cologne. Eau de toilette gives a feeling of joyful freshness and lightness, like a morning in the tropics, when fog still creeps over the jungle.
Dedicated to lovers of floral aromas
From 2010 to 2012, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria series came out under the name “Bouquets”. We will consider them briefly and in order. "Bouquet Numero 1" belongs to floral green aromas. The composition opens with bergamot, the energy of which is softened by herbal notes. Juicy summer fruits lurked in the heart of the pyramid. The noses of users caught the presence of peach and apricot. But why is eau de toilette called “Bouquet”? Yes, because after a moment they open on the skin and fill with them all the white flowers. Reviews characterize Bouquet No. 1 as eau de toilette, charming in its lightness. It evokes associations with swimming in a transparent and clean river, with beaches covered with green grass and white flowers. The light aroma of jasmine does not cause headache and suffocation, it is only unobtrusively gentle. In 2011, Wasser released his new bouquet. Aqua Allegoria Bouquet Numero 2 is completely different from its older brother. It has neither green notes, nor citrus. The composition is classified as floral-fruity. There are only three chords - cream rose, iris and lychee, but this does not seem simple toilet water. All components harmonize perfectly, creating a morning feeling in the Garden of Eden. The name Bouquet de Mai is very successful. Wasser managed to enclose all the blossoming of magnificent May in a bottle with branded golden honeycombs. This eau de toilette for women is fragrant with a bouquet of white flowers, in which users catch the scents of jasmine, lilac and lily of the valley. Notes of freshly cut grass and pink pepper give the composition an extraordinary sound. Grapefruit gives a feeling of freshness, purity and harmony.
"Angelica and Lilac"
The father of the 2007 Aqua Allegoria Angelique Lilas fragrance was the master himself, Jean-Paul Guerlain. Eau de toilette, assure reviews, sounds as complicated and time-consuming as expensive perfumes. Perfume composition at first sounds simple and discreet. The top notes are peppy orange accompanied by jasmine and pink pepper. But the heart of this fragrance is enchantingly floral. It is competed (or happily cohabiting?) By angelica and lilac. Ylang-ylang gives them sophistication and sensual sweetness. The base of the perfume is woven from the deep bass of a white Virginian cedar and heliotrope. Users note that from the very beginning it seems that the lilac overshadows the angel. But you need to give the fragrance an opportunity to open up. After some time, a certain creaminess begins to be felt, the composition becomes perfectly balanced. This floral aroma gives a feeling of well-groomed and clean. Base notes make eau de toilette similar to expensive perfumes at Guerlain House.
"Flora Nerolia"
Flora Nerolia Aqua Allegoria reviews are often called the best creation in the entire line of water allegories. The fragrance was created in the 2000 anniversary by Jean-Paul Guerlain. This toilet water stands out from the line with at least one of its rich amber colors. Neroli appears in the top notes of the perfumery composition to stay with you for a long time. This snow-white flower also dominates in the train. Orange blossom is added to it, giving the whole composition a sense of girlish innocence and tenderness. Petitgrain gives spirits a pleasant bitterness and astringency. Jasmine is also felt in the notes of the heart. The resistance of eau de toilette is simply amazing and is not inferior to real perfumes. The fragrance gives an explosion of spring happiness, nirvana from drowning in fragrant white flowers.
Gentiana
This 2001 fragrance anticipated Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Granita Pera toilet water, released fifteen years later. Gentiana is also dominated by a juicy pear. But the feeling of freshness here is created not by a cocktail of granite, ice crushed to the smallest crystals, but by a grated crust of citrus fruits. Them opens with them. The zest of bergamot, grapefruit, lime and orange gives a boost of vigor to our snuff receptors with its astringency. In the heart of the fragrance, pear and gentian peacefully adjoin (it is tyrlich, and the scientific name is gentian). This bright piercing blue flower appears in the mountains in early April. Its astringent sweetness gives pear powdery shades. The aroma train is woven from white musk and sandalwood. In general, the composition is so balanced, elegant and sophisticated that you want to wear perfume even at home - just to cheer you up.
"Laurel and liquorice"
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Laurier - Reglisse is an amazing fragrance for women, unlike other "allegories of water." In 2008, a whole creative team of perfumers worked on its creation: Jean-Paul Guerlain himself, Marie Salaman and Sylvanas Delacourt. This aroma can be attributed to green aromatic. The top notes are clearly felt citrus fruits, especially bergamot surrounded by orange. Regliss is one of the names of licorice. In Slavic languages, this plant is called licorice. It seems that the combination of licorice, from the root of which desserts and laurels are prepared - seasonings for soups, you can not create perfumes. But one drop of perfume completely dispels all doubts. The laurel in the heart of the perfumery composition is not a dry leaf, but fresh, with an oily surface on which dew drops tremble. And licorice gives it a tart bitterness. A modest spring violet, noble galbanum and gentle neroli fit in the amber base. The green wine glass charges positively and is permeated with sunlight. This fragrance can be worn not only in summer but also in spring and autumn.
Feedback on the line "Aqua Allegory"
Each flavor of Guerlain Aqua Allegoria reviews is called unique. There are also fruit flavors (for example, Tutti Kiwi) in this line. Connoisseurs of flower bouquets are not particularly limited in their choice. There are three fragrances in which the rose dominates (“Blanca”, “Manifique” and “Pop”). But thanks to the accompanying components, the “Queen of Flowers” ​​each time acquires a new and unique sound. For connoisseurs of exotic, you can recommend "Tiare-Mimosa" and "Ylang-Vanilla". All aromas of the line are good to wear in the warm season. But Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice toilet water is also suitable for winter.