They were stored behind the dark doors of the sideboards and were taken out only on holidays. Lancome Magie Noire perfume was a symbol of the magical, inaccessible, forbidden. These perfumes were not bought, they were "taken out", and in Russia they have long been synonymous with luxury and style. “Black Magic” is one of the most famous and, one might say, iconic perfumes of the French house, known throughout the world.
Brand history
The world famous LancĂ´me company was founded by Arman Ptizhan, a perfumer and creator, in 1935. He gave the name of the company thanks to the French castle Lancosme, which Armand really liked. And the roses that grew around the castle inspired him to the logo in the form of a golden rose, which can still be seen on the boxes with cosmetics and perfumes LancĂ´me. Monsieur Ptizhan was very skeptical of advertising, believing that high-quality perfumes and cosmetics speak for themselves. The more surprising is the success and scope that the company has achieved over the years of its existence.
Arman Ptizhan was born in a family of perfumers in 1884. The future owner of the legendary company studied as an engineer. At the age of 20, he got married, and two children eventually appeared in the family. The Ptizhan family had difficult times when Arman and his relatives were forced to go to South America, where he founded an import company. After World War I, Arman returned to France, and later went to work in Brazil, where he met his future teacher and mentor Francois Coti, the very one who discovered the chypre family. Koti Petizhan learned to relate to perfumery not only as a hobby, but also as a business that can bring a good income. After the death of a mentor, Ptizhan decided to open his own company.
Elegance and chic have become the brand philosophy. Brilliant specialists and celebrities were involved in working with the brand. For almost 30 years, the art director was the artist Georges Delom. For 14 years, the face of Lancome was the unrivaled Isabella Rossellini. Arman Ptizhan, and then his son Marcel, chose the best and most expensive for the company in order to maintain the reputation of a chic brand. Gold-stamped boxes and crystal vintage bottles are now a jewel in the world of perfume collectors. The brand is chosen by the most famous people in the world.
In 1941, the company already had representative offices in thirty countries and successfully competed with the giants Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. Starting with the release of perfumes, the company expanded production to a cosmetic line a year after the opening.
In 1942, a bold experimenter Arman Ptizhan decided to open a school for women who wanted to study cosmetology. In less than a year, the students comprehended the science of cosmetics and perfumery and went as envoys to Lancome to other countries - to carry a philosophy of true French style. Over the entire history of the company, many masterpieces have been created. Lancome Magie Noire (parfum) is one of them. Now the company is owned by L'Oreal Corporation, but its spirit - the spirit of chic and elegance - is preserved.
History of the creation of perfumes
The perfume of Lancome Magie Noire was born in 1978, when the ball was ruled by Opium, Diorella and Chanel No. 19. The creator, the famous French "nose" Gerard Goopy, drew inspiration from the East and sought to satisfy the craving of fans of the brand for magic and mysticism. The perfumer was able to wrap sweet and chypre notes in a bubble and created a harmonious perfume that appeared at the right time in the right place. In the description of Magie Noire Lancome, they often mention the density of the loop and incredible durability. Gerard Goupey collaborated with Lancome for several years and created the legendary Climat perfume, which is still considered the standard of French perfumery. About "Black Magic" the perfumer himself spoke with trepidation. In his interviews, he often said that the composition was a reflection of his childhood memories. Gupi created his perfume with thoughts of his mother. But the fragrance turned out to be truly feminine, fatal, mysterious. Gerard Goopy himself admitted that he did not create “Black Magic” for every woman, but wanted them to strive to be magical, exciting, and therefore he collected a unique collection of notes that still sounds special in the perfume world. So perfectly matched shades of aroma that the whole composition sounds masterpiece. Interestingly, the perfumer chose the formula of perfumes from 30 different combinations. Only the twenty-fifth trial version pleased him. Thus was born the famous "Black Magic", which is still not fully reformulated, to the delight of its fans.
Exquisite bottle
Throughout its history, the beautiful bottle, originally created by the artist and designer Pierre Dinand, has changed four times. The inspiration for a seemingly simple thing like a small bottle was female beauty. The designer gave the bottle the shape of the neckline of a woman's dress. Magie Noire Lancome for women has become a reflection of elegance, and for men - seduction. The "neckline" of the very first bottle was framed by orange and dark red stripes, which fans call the "suns". The pattern was repeated on the box, and the lid was small and round.
In the second version of the design, the pattern in the form of the sun becomes small. The third and fourth versions - just those that reached Russia in the eighties - do not have color bars at all, all letters of the name are uppercase and angular. There are also rare forms of vials produced in limited collections. But they still have similarities with the female silhouette. Now on the shelves most often you can see not the perfume Magie Noire Lancome, but the toilet water in a high transparent bottle. Nevertheless, fans are looking for and find those same black round bottles with caps in the form of balls, without a spray.
Fragrance Description
“Black magic” by “Lankom” refers to the eastern chypre group of aromas. Smoky, sweet, with an elusive bitterness, but incredibly bright perfumes start with the smell of currant leaves and oak moss. The aroma is revealed by a combination of honey notes, the smokiness of incense and the bitterness of galbanum. The animal note, which the human nose often takes with difficulty, is woven into a general chord very harmoniously and is tinted by warm spices and ambergris. Animalistic notes give the whole fragrance an intimate sound. Judging by the reviews, in Magie Noire Lancome, chypre notes with hints of bergamot are clearly audible. Against this background, floral notes are lost and merge into one common aroma. The owners of the bottle describe the aroma as thick, smoky, sweet. Echoes of dusty greens and a sweet chord of sandalwood, patchouli and ambergris remain in the train. The smell is very persistent, can stay for more than a day on clothes. Its loop also does not cause complaints, but at the same time it can cause a headache in tight enclosed spaces.
In the description of the Magie Noire Lancome fragrance, the word “retro” often sounds, but it does not mean that the perfume is out of date. Rather, it is a tribute to the classics of high perfumery. “Black magic” is described as a legend, an era, but even today it finds its admirers. Such perfumes are beyond age and time. And the fact that many associate them with their childhood is explained only by the memory of those magical spirits that were stored in the locked cabinets of mothers and grandmothers. Magie Noire Lancome perfumes do not require a certain age or status, as they themselves create a halo of chic around the owner. But in order to wear such a bright beauty, you need to have the courage and accurately understand the dosage. These spirits are referred to as evening ones, so going out to work in the morning can be a mistake. Although connoisseurs and admirers wear them in any season, in any clothing. This is one of the few fragrances in the world that was created for women, but it can be worn by men because of its strict base with oak moss, vetiver and sandalwood.
Top notes
Top notes: bergamot, blackcurrant leaf, blackcurrant bud, raspberry, galbanum, hyacinth, rose.
It is not by chance that floral and berry notes are included in the perfumes of Magie Noire Lancome. Just they create the feeling of childhood, which the perfumer Gerard Gupi tried to convey. The aroma of an exquisite rose is a symbol of femininity, and hyacinth emphasizes the beauty of a regal flower. Bright bergamot at the very beginning sets chypre tonality. Since it is a complex, multi-component fragrance that combines citrus freshness with floral tenderness and grassy astringency, it often becomes a key note in creating chypres. The smell of currant leaf is impossible to confuse with anything. Green fragrance transfers to sunny summer, where, in addition to currants, raspberries can be found. The sweet-sweet beginning of the aroma creates a unique sensation of the riddle in the perfumes of “Black Magic”. Interestingly, the blackcurrant note is revealed differently depending on the season. In spring and summer it is a refreshing sonorous aroma. Autumn and winter - warm and warming. Enthusiastic reviews about Magie Noire Lancome only confirm the correct choice of notes by the perfumer.
Heart notes
Heart notes: honey, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, iris root, lily of the valley, cedar, narcissus.
It would seem that in the heart the chypre principle has no continuation at all. The sweetest smells of honey, tuberose and jasmine are the loudest. But at the same time, "Black Magic" does not turn into a perfumery gourmet, remaining a royal aroma. According to reviews, in Lancome’s Magie Noire, sweet notes are well-tinted by the aroma of cedar, which takes the shipra baton off the top notes. Not everyone can feel the lily of the valley aroma, but, merging with the powdery sweet smell of daffodil and iris root, it creates the most tender note as another facet of a female essence. For the eroticism of "Black Magic" meets the "flower-flower" ylang-ylang. In the Philippines, where this surprisingly beautiful flower with a multifaceted smell grows, ylang-ylang is considered a symbol of sensual love. He was very much appreciated by Coco Chanel, considering one of the components of the aroma of a real woman.
Base notes
Base notes: oak moss, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, ambergris, musk, civet.
In the description of the Magie Noire Lancome fragrance, animal notes are often mentioned, which some people like, but some seem unpleasant. This is a note of cibetin, the most precious substance that was once mined in a very laborious way. The substance, or secret, stood out by the small animals of the civet family, civet. The animals were kept in tight cages to collect a few drops of the elixir. A note of cibetin gave intimate eroticism to spirits, taking this baton from the ylang-ylang. Fortunately, they learned how to synthesize cibetin at the beginning of the last century, so Black Magic is not worth sky-high money, but it remains the same mysterious and languid. Cibetin supports musk, adding softness. Vetiver, which is also in the base, is considered to be a masculine note, because this greenish-bitter aroma is part of so many men's colognes. But reviews of Magie Noire Lancome speak of femininity. We can say that the vetiver is responsible for the strength of spirits, their steel core, which does not allow the base of sandalwood, patchouli and ambergris to simply dissolve in space.
Vintage version
Lovers of rare vintage beauty can still enjoy the elegance and style of the fragrance, since Lancome Magie Noire toilet water contains almost the same formula as the very first perfumes. Lancome's policy is that legend spirits do not reformulate. Nevertheless, there are still differences. It is well known that spirits have a stronger concentration, which means resistance and plume. According to reviews, the perfumes of Lancome Magie Noire have a thicker and more saturated smell. Many say that sweetness is more pronounced in them, while the upper notes last longer in eau de toilette, giving the aroma a fresh breath. At the same time, eau de toilette has the same bright plume as perfume, but less resistance. There are two polar opinions on whether to buy vintage. Manufacturers indicate the shelf life of any perfume, after which it is not recommended to use it. Even if you do not understand the complex conventions on the bottle, to determine that the perfume is spoiled, you can "by eye". Odor may change, precipitate may form and even an allergic reaction may occur. But collectors who write reviews about Magie Noire Lancome claim that, when properly stored, vintage bottles that contain the same incredible perfumes can be used 20 years after purchase, if you follow the storage rules. The vial should be kept tightly closed, in a dark box and in a cool place. Do not expose vintage perfumes to direct sunlight, cold, sudden changes in temperature and shaking. Only in this way will they be preserved, but not in their original form. The top notes will disappear, and the heart and base will thicken and become more pronounced and persistent.
Modern version
For those who are familiar with the aroma of "Black Magic", these are perfumes from the past. From those times when everything abroad was automatically elitist, and spirits were a symbol of status and prosperity. That "Black Magic", carefully stored to the last drop, is considered the best, unsurpassed version. Reviews about the Magie Noire Lancome vintage are replete with enthusiastic epithets such as “reference”, “exemplary”, “chic”, “stunning”, while the modern version is unfairly neglected. Yes, times have changed, and perfume technology has changed. Few people boast all-natural perfume components. Most of them are synthetic. And this was done not only in order to reduce the cost of production, but also in order to preserve rare species of plants and animals. Therefore, it is incorrect to compare the vintage version of perfumes and modern toilet water. The formula remained the same, but the toilet water did not “live” as long as the perfumes stored since grandmother’s times, and does not have that concentration and saturation.
Many reviews of the modern version of Magie Noire Lancome perfumes begin with complaints that the fragrance is not the same as before. But people unfamiliar with the vintage and not having fond memories of these perfumes on Mom’s dressing table say that the aroma is multifaceted, delicate and alluring. It has aristocracy, but not arrogant, but refined and elegant. It is compared to classical music. Can we say that modern classics are worse than the classics of Mozart and Bach? She is good, just created at a different time and for other people. So is Black Magic. The modern version is good for those who want to be the queen, but today, in a world of rushing people and rushing cars. In this world it will not be possible to move slowly, but you can still rise above the crowd.
For buyers
Magie Noire Lancome vintage perfumes can still be purchased from collectors, forums or auctions. At the same time, the price can reach sky-high heights. For an incomplete bottle of 1990, they ask from nine to fifteen thousand. The price for a vintage of the 80s reaches thirty-odd thousand rubles. However, there is no guarantee that the aroma remains the same, since most of the bottles have already been used. The purchase of a modern version will not cost so much. But Lancome cosmetics and perfumes still belong to the luxury class, and not the mass market. Therefore, even in chain stores, Magie Noire Lancome 75 ml toilet water will cost from four to seven thousand rubles. You should beware of perfumes at a very low price. Since the policy of the manufacturer implies the use of high quality materials, the price tag cannot be lower than three thousand rubles. Any perfume should be tested on the skin before buying. Not only in order to check how the fragrance holds and whether it is like, but in order to avoid unpleasant consequences in the form of allergies after purchase. You can purchase original toilet water in perfume stores or on the official Lancome website.