Patchouli until recently were undeservedly forgotten. They were associated with cheap, sharp, unbalanced perfumes, often on a synthetic basis, which were in vogue in the “crimped” 70s. Patchouli oil was still used in aromatherapy, but no more.
However, this note sometimes slipped into the bestsellers of the perfume world. Suffice it to recall Patchouli Patch, Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli, Dark Passage from Tablo de Parfums, or simply Patchouli from Molinar. By the way, this note, a little conspiratorial, is also present in the famous perfumes of Coromandel by Chanel.
Naturally, the famous American designer and director Tom Ford could not stay away from attempts to resurrect the good name of patchouli, and created his perfume work on the theme of Indian incense. What is this flavor?
Does he recall the democratic spirits of the 70s of the last century, or does he have a different message? In this article, we will analyze the reviews about “White Patchouli” from “Tom Ford”.
Indian plant magic
This aroma belongs to the group of patchouli, chypre, white-flowered - this is a brief characteristic that can be given to perfume.
But what does all this mean? If an association about freshness and aroma can still arise about white flowers, if we know something about chypre, then patchouli for a European remains an incomprehensible aroma.
But this plant (more precisely, a bush) was known to the ancient Tamils ​​from time immemorial. The name “patch + ellai” itself means “green leaf” in translation from Dravidian.
In the homeland of the plant, and throughout South Asia, its oil was used in perfumes and traditional medicine. In Europe, patchouli became famous thanks to Napoleon. But then the aroma was half-forgotten, until in 1960-1970. interest in him did not rise in the wake of the hippie movement.
Prior to this, patchouli were clearly associated with India. Having mastered the beaches of Goa, hippies brought to Europe fashion for everything bright, tropical, sharp, without halftones. For twenty years, interest in patchouli has not disappeared.
The fashion for this fragrance eventually led to its rejection: manufacturers began to use synthetic material. Cheap toilet waters with a sharp aroma of patchouli began to be sold everywhere. But before, they were synonymous with sophisticated belle-epoque luxury!
Therefore, the perfume for women "White Patchouli" from "Tom Ford" and are a challenge of our time. How did users perceive this demarche?
Original patchouli - what is it?
Since the 60s of the last century, the fragrant bush began to be cultivated in other places with a suitable hot climate - in Africa, Latin America, and the Philippines. The plant is a pogostemon of the family Labiaceae (this is its scientific name), of course, took root there.
But just as the Chardonnay vines in French Champagne and the Ukrainian Odessa region produce completely different wine, the patchouli leaves in the new homeland do not smell like they do in India or Sri Lanka. The process of collecting, drying and fermentation has a great influence on the aroma of oil.
With the wrong technology, patchouli has a sharp, too heady, "simple" aroma. But if you use only three or four top leaves of a young shoot of a bush, as for Tom Ford perfume, observe all the subtleties of the old oil production process, the fragrance of the plant will surprise you indescribably.
Perfumers describe patchouli fragrance as grassy, ​​slightly earthy, with a “green heart and woody soul”. The absolute of the plant is a dark green precious liquid with a sweet grassy character and balsamic notes.
Interestingly, patchouli, like good wine, only gets better with age. In the aged oil, bewitching fruity nuances become audible, and its aroma is full-bodied, rounded, balanced.
Tom Ford, White Patchouli: a fragrance description by the manufacturer
In 2006, the design house invited the famous perfumer Zhivodan to create an oriental composition called “Black Orchid”. The second work of the master, compiled for Tom Ford, appeared two years later.
Fragrances cannot be called paired, but the family resemblance in them is still traced - at least in corrugated glass bottles. Both perfumes can be described as retro perfumes.
Compositions evoke memories of the brilliant salons of high society lionesses of the last century. In “Black Orchid”, the dominant flower is surrounded by fresh citrus fruits, jasmine, gardenia, truffles and ylang-ylang based on warm notes of sandalwood and chocolate.
White Patchouli Tom Ford perfume opens with peony and coriander chords. White flowers and bergamot are adhered to the top notes, without which modern perfumes are rarely dispensed with.
In the heart of the composition, a rose with jasmine manifests itself in all its glory, the ambrette serves as the background. The green oil of the Indian bush appears only in the base.
But it sounds so long, powerful and at the same time refined that it becomes clear why the patchouli gave the name to perfume. Together with them, in the lower notes of the loop, chords of warm dry wood and incense are felt.
Description of the fragrance by users
In reviews of "White Patchouli" from "Tom Ford" users draw a completely different picture of the perfume pyramid. At its tip, buyers assure, is a dominant plant, which gave the name to female perfumes.
Patchouli, in their opinion, sounds from the very overture to a long train. In the top notes, the ladies saw coriander and (not declared by the manufacturer) pink pepper. This mix of patchouli with spices looks bewitching.
Warm and sweet notes balance fresh white flowers. The heart of the fragrance “White Patchouli” from “Tom Ford” in the reviews are characterized as peony-bergamot.
The main duo mixes the fragrances of ambrette, frankincense and woody notes. But in the database, where the main party is again performed by patchouli, users see a rose and jasmine.
"Tom Ford", "White Patchouli": a description of the bottle
The author of the composition Zhivodan refers us to his early perfumery creation “Black Orchid”, which he created for the designer house. It becomes clear why patchouli in these spirits are called white.
In India and in Ceylon, the pogostemon bush gives just such flowers with a pinkish pearl tint. And although perfumes use exclusively plant leaves, the author considered the indication of the origin of the essential oil not superfluous.
The basis of perfume is not synthetic material, but a precious elixir collected from the four upper shoots of the bush. The original “White Patchouli” from “Tom Ford” is enclosed in a snow-white bottle made of opaque corrugated glass.
The perfume bottle is wider and squat than the "Black Orchid", which only emphasizes the femininity of the liquid poured into it. On its snow-white surface flaunts a small cream label with the name.
Everything is done in the spirit of minimalism, which brings retro spirits closer to modernity, making them more relevant.
Who is perfume made for?
“White Patchouli” from “Tom Ford” is a perfume for true ladies who have not yet transferred to our hectic age of unisex and clothing of democratic cut. In this opinion, the manufacturer and buyers agree.
This smell of breed, nobility and wealth, which does not boast, but exists "for yourself." The fragrance is suitable for both young and mature ladies. The main thing is that the mistress of the spirits should correspond to this type of woman.
Sweet notes of flowers and mysteriously intoxicating patchouli stand out from the crowd. And a woman needs to be prepared to meet the views of strangers. The plume of perfumery water is long, exciting, but sonorous and fresh, like a breath of summer breeze.
Perfumes open on the skin gradually, note by note, but patchouli, according to users, is heard from beginning to end. A lady who wears a fragrance is not elaborate, not catchy, but bewitching with her noble, silvery coldness. Earthy and woody notes give it a little sensual warmth - but within the framework of decency.
When and with what to wear
Perfumes of “Tom Ford” “White Patchouli” - are out of age. But wearing their ladies is most recommended during the day. “White Patchouli” does not have the glamor and chic that are supposed in perfumes for the evening publication.
But for work in the office or for a walk around the city, they are exactly what a discerning lady needs with sophisticated manners and innate elegance. The ideal time of the year for perfumes is the off-season.
In frost, the jasmine, ringing to an ice crunch, is more apparent. In the summer heat, patchouli may sound a little sweeter than you want. What clothes does this perfume go with? Just not with a T-shirt and jeans!
In these spirits there is something of “blue blood”, so the clothes should be appropriate - an elegant office suit or a feminine dress.
How to scent
Regarding the durability of Tom Patchouli Eau de Parfum from Tom Ford, the reviews are unanimous: it corresponds to the declared concentration, even more. Perfumes stay on the skin for 12 hours, and on clothes for several days.
The train is decent, for those around it it is fresh, white-flowered, and for the hostess it is cozy, warm, smelling of a tree heated in the sun.
Reviews
Perfume for women White Patchouli Tom Ford users described as a fragrance unconditionally expensive, noble. It is revealed gradually, playing with facets and nuances. Everything in it is balanced: the severity and coldness of jasmine and white flowers is softened by the warmth, roundness and sweetness of patchouli.
These perfumes can not be called unisex, despite the notes of bergamot and spices in the overture. Perfumes will surely appeal to lovers of luxurious oriental aromas, although fans of European classics will also be delighted with them.