After some time, people living in a private house begin to live closely in their four walls, so there is a need for the construction of an additional extension. This article is devoted to the features of the construction of an extension to the house with your own hands.
The extension can act as a terrace, porch, hallway, additional or utility room, hide wall defects or protect one side of the house from the wind.
You can design the construction drawing yourself or use ready-made solutions by contacting the building design department. It is worth noting that the ready-made solutions take into account all the nuances associated with safety and reliability.
Most often, an extension is erected from the front door. For a small family, an extension of 12 square meters is suitable. m
The extension to the house must be legal, that is, before starting construction, you must write a statement to the BTI about the desire to make changes to the technical documentation for the house. Otherwise, the extension will be considered illegal, all further actions to legitimize it will go through the court.
After the paper formalities are settled, and the extension project is selected, you can begin the long-awaited construction.
For the extension, two main types of materials are used:
- wood (frame-panel extensions, boardwalks and log structures);
- brick (red, white, aerated concrete and cinder block can also be used).
Do-it-yourself extension to the house should be built from the material from which the main house is built. The ideal case is when the extension is in perfect harmony with the building and the infrastructure of the plot.
When creating an extension with your own hands, a preliminary calculation of prices for work, materials is performed, and the expected construction time is also pretended. Marking of the site in the selected and agreed place. The fertile soil layer can be carefully removed and evenly distributed on the beds.
The foundation for the extension
Consider such an important issue as the foundation for the extension, because the stability of the entire structure will depend on the quality of the foundation. You can’t save on the foundation.
Depending on which extension is chosen - wooden (light) or brick (heavy) - the type of foundation is selected.
Consider the foundations that are recommended to be built on stable soil without groundwater.
If the extension is light, then it is most rational to choose a columnar foundation.
If the extension is heavy, then the tape foundation is a good option.
Consider both foundation technologies in more detail.
When creating a columnar foundation, pits are excavated in the ground at a distance of 1.5 m from each other. The depth of the pits is 50-70 cm. When the bottom of the pits is tamped, a 15-cm layer of sand and a 15-cm layer of crushed stone are poured there. Next, a screed of mortar 5 cm thick is created on the rubble. This screed can be further reinforced with reinforcement. When the solution dries, they begin to erect the red brick masonry.
When creating a strip foundation in the ground, a trench is digging along the perimeter of a future extension. Depth, layers of sand and gravel are exactly the same as when creating the columnar foundation. The width of the trench is 20-30% wider than the walls of the future extension. A wooden formwork is being erected along the edges of the trench. An armature frame is created inside the trench.
If we are dealing with a site in which groundwater is relatively shallow (or even in a quicksand), a pile foundation is suitable. For easy extension we choose steel screw piles, for heavy extension - reinforced concrete driven.
Walling for an extension
One of the important stages of the construction started is the construction of walls for the extension. If a brick is chosen as the main material, the stages of construction will be as follows:
- The surface of the basement of the extension is covered with a layer of waterproofing.
- The very first brick is installed on the grillage of the extension, at the junction with the main house. A layer of mortar is evenly applied to the waterproofing with a trowel. A layer of mortar is also applied to one of the bumps of the brick. The brick is taken with two hands and mounted on a grillage. The mortar of the brick with the mortar should be adjacent to the wall. The brick must be aligned vertically and horizontally. To do this, use the building level. You can level the brick with your hands or by tapping it with a hammer.
- The second brick is installed on the corner of the grillage closest to the first brick. After both bricks are perfectly aligned, a thread is stretched between them, along the outer spoon face. This thread is needed in order to control the alignment of the created brick row.
- The first row is laid out. The thickness of the mortar layer between the bricks should be approximately 1 cm. Excess mortar that appears when the brick is pressed in is removed with a trowel and sent to a mixing tank.
- Subsequent brick rows are laid out in a checkerboard pattern.
The walls are erected evenly. For one day, it is recommended to lay out 8-10 brick rows, after which give the solution time to harden.
If wood is chosen as the material, the construction of walls for the extension can be carried out using two methods: frame-panel and crown.
The frame-shield method consists in forming the skeleton of a future extension and hanging special shields on this skeleton. The material from which the frame is created is a bar or boards. Creating a frame begins with the installation of corner posts, which are installed in the form of a rectangular triangle. The material is fastened together with the help of nails, screws, steel corners, staples.
When creating frame walls, it is necessary to prepare boards of the right size in advance. For this purpose, a cutting table-workbench with a circular saw is mounted near the annex. At the workbench all material trimming will be carried out.
Often, the boards brought from the sawmill have insufficiently even ends. Such ends must be trimmed (aligned).
The crown method consists in the formation of a quadrangular "well", which is formed using a horizontally located beam, boards or logs. The required height from floor to ceiling is determined by the number of crowns created. This method of construction can be implemented, as before, without resorting to the use of modern fasteners, that is, to build a structure without a single nail.
Annex Roof
In total there are several types of roofs: single-pitched, double-pitched, four-pitched, broken (complex).
In practice, a single-pitched or gable roof is most often used for an extension.
A shed roof is easier to implement, but its installation does not imply the arrangement of a full-fledged attic or attic. The angle of inclination of such a roof is from 10 to 30 degrees. The pitched roof is mounted as follows:
- Two load-bearing beams are installed on two opposite walls, with one beam being higher than the other.
- Rafters are mounted on the beams. For reliable fixing on the ends of rafters special cuts are created. With the help of cuts, coupling with beams occurs. Additionally, the entire structure is fastened with the help of corners, screws and nails. The distance between the rafters should be 50-70 cm.
- A layer of waterproofing is applied on top of the rafters, which is fixed with the help of a lathing.
- A roof covering is applied to the crate, which can be slate, galvanized iron, tile. After installation of the roofing, work on the outside of the roof is completed.
Work from the inside of the roof is connected with the insulation of the extension. For this, a lower crate is created, to which the thermal insulation is attached. A vapor barrier layer is applied to the insulation, then the finishing cladding of the extension ceiling is mounted.
A gable roof, unlike a gable roof, has a ridge in the middle of the entire structure, and the other two beams are located on the same level. From the ridge left and right rafters depart. The skate is fixed with racks, crossbars, struts and rafters.
The subsequent installation of insulation layers, vapor barrier, etc. - is similar to the installation of a shed roof.