According to the dictionary of D. Ushakov, a dressmaker who makes products and details of the decor of the female image: hats, dresses, veils is called a fashionista. But in reality the meaning of the word “modist” in history has a much broader definition. The milliners were engaged in both individual tailoring of clothes and hats, and opened stores where they exhibited original models of women's toilets.
In France of the XVI-XX centuries, a woman who designs, sews and sells fashionable dresses and hats was called a milliner. The fashion for incredibly magnificent elegant dresses, openwork hats, fans, feathers and lace, flared up at the end of the Renaissance era, literally created this profession.
The profession of a fashionist in the history of Europe
Now this word is rarely used in its original meaning. But at one time, turning to a modist was a common thing, especially for nobles. By the way, the first mention of this specialty dates back almost 400 years. Originating in France, the profession soon spread throughout the world, and everyone knew who the modist was. She became the prototype of modern clothing designers (couturiers).
At the dawn of the Baroque era, all the thimble and needle masters were divided into several professions. The tailor began to cut and sew costumes for men. The seamstress worked on the creation of underwear, and the fashionista was sewing and decorating dresses for women.
In the era of Romanticism, the profession, thanks to which women could decorate themselves with dresses embroidered with a pearl pattern, with frills and draperies, lace and embroidery, gained incredible popularity. The most talented milliners were known far beyond the borders of their countries, and noble people from all over the world came to them. They were respected and revered as trendsetters.
What was included in the scope of activity of the modiste
The self-employed milliners created hats and other hats and adorned them. Sewed clothes of simple styles, as well as capes, shawls, mantillas, veils, scarves, fans. To create complex dresses, they ordered the basis (silhouette, style) from tailors, and then they independently decorated the product with ribbons, lace, braid, fringe, precious stones, floral embroidery.
There was another direction in the activity of the modist - this is an update of well-worn things. They were often asked to refresh old dresses. The milliners redrawn and decorated them, creating "new" things from worn ones.
But the milliner is not a dressmaker or cutter, as many have suggested. The task of the tailor was in the basic rule: "The main thing is that the suit is sitting." And the fashion designers, like modern couturiers, knew a lot about jewelry, ruffles, lace, accessories and could create masterpieces based on a dress of simple cut.
The popularity of the profession of fashionistas
Fashionable trends in clothes from the 16th to the 20th century were dictated by just the fashionistas. This allowed those of them whom the people recognized as the most talented to have their own fashion houses in which hired workers worked, and sometimes their number reached 100 people.
To fulfill large orders in full and to offer customers images in the same style, such employees as tailors, seamstresses, lace-makers, embroiderers, furriers, as well as those who created artificial flowers, handled feathers, made corsets were involved.
The most famous fashionista of all time is Rosa Bertin, who sewed toilets for the Queen of France, Marie Antoinette (pictured) and was awarded the title of Minister of Fashion. This talented woman had her own shop ("The Great Mogul"), where noble nobles came for outfits from all over France, from England, Spain, Sweden and Russia. Fashion historians consider Rosa Bertin to be the first French fashion designer.
Fashionist in Russia
The term “modista” came to Russia only two centuries after its formation in France. Beginning in 1803, professional women’s fashion schools opened in major cities of the empire. In addition, ladies' fashionists formed entire professional communities, where they shared new developments and knowledge acquired abroad.
In modern Russian society, the profession of a milliner has practically lost its significance. But fashion is now striding leaps and bounds, and due to the availability of information, this term has again begun to be mentioned. This word is often used as a description of their professional activities by novice designers.
Interestingly, in the register of professional standards of Russia, the fashionista is still listed as a position. This profession belongs to the section of specialists in the repair and individual sewing of sewing and knitwear, articles of fur and leather, haberdashery, hats.