Gold embroidery is a very ancient type of embroidery, always highly appreciated by connoisseurs. Products of Torzhok gold sewing are known in many countries. Participation in various prestigious exhibitions, both at the beginning of the 20th century and nowadays, and receiving awards testify to the unquenchable interest in ancient art, which successfully fit into modern times.
A bit of history
The ancient city of Torzhok, located on the Tverts river, was founded by Novgorod merchants in the XII century as a trading settlement at the junction of land and waterways. And the name is consistent with this. According to archaeological excavations, scientists suggest that gold and silver outfits were embroidered here in the 9th century, and in the 13th century, a piece of leather with gold embroidery on it was the local currency. Sewing with gold threads has become a profitable business for Torzhok. Torzhok gold seamstresses embroidered not only clothes, hats, but also shoes. The morocco boots embroidered by them are mentioned in many literary works.
At first they sewed with gold threads, the products were very expensive, only rich people wore them. Gradually, such threads were replaced by a thread of thread - a thin spiral thread of gilded wire. Sewing became known as gold. And then these threads were changed to the so-called spinning, when they began to wind a thin copper wire with silver or gold plating on linen, silk or cotton thread. And over time, embroidered with gold embroidery steel and folk clothes.
About Torzhok gold seamstresses
Women have been embroidered in Russia for a long time, and according to the tradition that dates back to monasteries and luminaries, Torzhok gold seamstresses and gold seamstresses in general are only women. Men are preparing paintings for work.
In the photo - a female headdress, the 2nd half of the 19th century. Kokoshniks, murderers, shawls, dresses, shoes, even morocco furniture were embroidered with gold thread, river pearls, mother of pearl. The background for the patterns were plain fabrics - silk, velvet, taffeta, morocco. For a fortress, a canvas was laid under them. Orders came from the royal court, from the church, from private individuals.
In the photo is a copy of the Empress's ball gown. Many ball gowns of Empress Catherine II were embroidered by Torzhok gold seamstresses, which testifies to the highest level of their skill. Indeed, at that time in almost every rich house, not to mention monasteries, there were lunches - gold-sewing workshops where women worked, decorating rich clothes.
Icons
Embroidery of icons is a very ancient art in Russia, it is a long and painstaking work, performed in accordance with the Orthodox canons. The amazing color of the thread, the combination of tones, the accurate transmission of the smallest nuances turn embroidered icons into works of art.
Icons created by golden seamstresses are unique works of art. They say that when working on the icon, the embroiderer, piercing the canvas with a needle, said “Lord”, and when she brought the needle back to the front side, she said “have mercy”. And how many thousand times during the work the woman said: "Lord, have mercy." Already prayed in this way, the icon carried, in addition to its semantic meaning, the warmth of the soul and hands of its creator.
History of OJSC “Torzhokskie Zolotoshvei”. Catalog
In Torzhok, working on orders, about 300 women worked in the 19th century. But fashion was gradually changing, products stopped ordering, and embroiderers were left almost without a livelihood. And then, in 1894, the Novotorzhsky Zemstvo Government (the name of the city changed several times) opened training and demonstration workshops and ensured the sale of finished products. And already at the beginning of the 20th century, at major international exhibitions in Paris, London and other cities, the works of Torzhok craftswomen began to receive the highest awards. Traditionally, Torzhok gold seamstresses use drawings with floral ornaments, delicate and unique.
Since 1923, a school was created on the basis of the workshops, which trained embroidery instructors. In 1928, graduates of this school created the Artel named after March 8, and later, in 1960, it became a factory. The traditions of gold embroidery nevertheless survived. In Soviet times, the Torzhok Gold Sewing Factory named after March 8 issued mainly insignia for the Soviet army, in small quantities - panels, eyeglass cases, skullcaps. In 1992, the factory became a limited liability partnership, and in 1995 - OJSC “Torzhokskie Zolotoshvei”.
The catalog of products manufactured by the association is very extensive. It includes unique panels, tablecloths, original pillowcases for sofa cushions, tablecloths, napkins, bags, jewelry, scarves, scarves, clothes for every taste. The assortment of goods is constantly expanding, updated, a competent marketing policy allows you to take into account changes in fashion, tastes, offer exactly those goods that are in demand. Recently, there has been a lot of ordering from the church for sewing vestments, utensils and household items.
This unique enterprise has become the hallmark of Torzhok and the pride of the country. The traditions of gold embroidery, which the craftswomen have always been famous for, have been preserved and strengthened, acquiring new features that correspond to our time. The craftsmen’s products are in the St. George Hall in the Kremlin, in the St. Andrew Hall of the Grand Kremlin Palace. A panel of Torzhok gold seamstresses depicting the Cathedral of Christ the Savior was donated by the country's president V. Putin to the Pope.
Belt House
In Russia, an Orthodox person must have a girdle. It was indecent to appear in public without a belt, and an unclean person could get close to him. The belt was a charm, and it was beautifully decorated, weaving protective words into embroidery. A.S. Pushkin, driving through Torzhok, bought belts embroidered with wonderful craftsmen.
The factory has the only museum of its kind in Russia - the Belt House. In the middle of the room, around the circumference, is a unique embroidered belt, 12 m long and 25 cm wide, with the protective prayer “Alive in the help of Vyshnyago”. It is made by craftsmen according to all the canons of Orthodox culture. It was embroidered for almost a year by 6 craftswomen. You can enter the belt and feel its strength. They say that if you make a wish at this time, it will come true.
The shops
A factory is opened at the factory, where at producer prices you can buy many original, unique things for different tastes and purses. No one leaves this store without a purchase. Near the store there is a museum where unique products of embroiderers from antiquity to the present day are presented. A beautiful store is also open in the city center.
But not only in Torzhok there are shops of the Torzhok Gold Seamstress association. Tver now also has such a store. It is easier for people to get to the regional center than to a provincial city in order to choose and buy something. The store opened and immediately attracted the attention of the presence there, as in other stores of this association, unique embroidered items, linen with embroidery and bedding.
Separately, mention should be made of embroidered laptop bags. Nowadays, very many people, especially young people, have laptops. The range of laptop bags, on the one hand, is large. On the other hand, they are all of the same type and fairly standard. But the question of choosing bags for girls and women is very serious, everyone wants their things to be different from others, to be unique. The stores offer a large assortment of embroidered, original laptop bags that are sewn at the same factory. And they are worn with pleasure, knowing that no one else has the same thing. Natural and practical linen clothes are in fashion now. A large place in the stores is occupied by the Tizetta collection of linen clothes. Torzhok gold seamstresses embroider unique patterns on linen fabrics. Fashionable things are in demand, do not leave anyone indifferent.
Shirts, blouses, dresses, jackets, skirts, waistcoats, clothes for men look great and wear well, providing the owner with maximum comfort in feeling.
Online store "Golden Thread"
The work of embroiderers is known far beyond the borders of the country, they are unique, they are bought with pleasure. But not everyone who wishes can come by themselves and purchase the products of such craftswomen as Torzhok gold seamstresses. The online store is open just for these people. On the monitor screen, you can in detail examine what is offered for sale and choose what you like. If, for example, you are not satisfied with the color of the item, then you can click on the appropriate button to see in which colors this product is available. And if you do not find what you need, then you can order what you want, and after some time you will get exactly what you want.
Conclusion
The development of the Torzhok gold seamstress factory continues. The store in Tver is a vivid confirmation of this. Participation in many prestigious exhibitions and salons, prizes received there, indicate that the ancient art of gold embroidery does not age, it is enriched with new ideas and modern trends.