Various materials are used to lengthen nails, correct and repair. Professionals distinguish them by purpose, quality and ability to polymerize. All such materials are called composite. This is a large group consisting of not only nail extension products, but also dental products.
During their short existence, these materials have undergone significant modifications. Initially, the nails were extended with medical powder, which is used to make fillings. Then, with the development of the nail industry, he was replaced by new material called acrylic. It was almost the same powder, but adapted for application to nails. With the discovery of gel technology, light-curing fillings and gel nails appeared.
What is the name for nail extensions
All modeling materials for nails can be divided into two large groups: gel and acrylic. They have different technologies, but both are acrylates. Modern techniques for applying them to natural nails allow you to combine gel and acrylic. There is no single remedy for lengthening nails. And those that are used now always act in tandem and under conditions that trigger polymerization.
For an acrylic system, this is a powder called “acrylic powder,” and monomer is a chemical fluid for mixing with it. When the powder is combined with the monomer, the resulting composition polymerizes very quickly, so for convenience, a gel was invented. This is an acrylic composition that is not capable of polymerization without additional lighting. In his presence, under the influence of photoinitiators, the polymerization process starts and takes place in two minutes in an ultraviolet lamp or in thirty seconds in an LED lamp for manicure.
Aids
Manicurists have long figured out what tools are needed to build nails. The fact is that for quality work, sterility is necessary. If fat is present on the nails, there will be no adhesion. Therefore, to prepare the nails, they are degreased. The tool that is used in this case is called a “clinser”. This is an alcohol-containing liquid that may have some other inclusions (for example, thymol - an antifungal drug). In Russian, this name did not take root, often the word "degreaser" is used instead. It can be replaced with pure alcohol.
The acidity of alcohol is 6 units, and the nails and skin have a natural acidity of 5.5 units. To balance acidity and increase adhesion (adhesion of the material to keratin of the nail), a weak acid solution is used. It is called a primer. For acrylic technology, the primer contains a higher concentration than for gel. Therefore, distinguish between acid and acid-free primers. This name is conditional, since both contain acid, but in different proportions.
Acrylic technology
There are two acrylic nail extensions: powder and monomer. They work in pairs. To apply the composition to the nails, use a brush. It is moistened in a glass with monomer and lowered into a box with powder. So they collect a ball of material, which immediately begins to harden. For beginners, a frozen acrylic ball can ruin more than one brush.
The construction of acrylic nails requires precisely verified movements of the master. With an insufficiently wet brush, the ball turns out to be excessively dry, the material polymerizing on the nail becomes like snow. If, on the contrary, the brush was not well wrung out, the ball may completely slide off the brush.
Acrylic nails are polished and varnished. It is well worn on hard nails, but is afraid of solvents. You can apply them after nail extension - the top coating of the gel system, which is not afraid of nail polish remover. But then you need a manicure lamp to dry it.
Gel modeling
In gel technology, there are materials for modeling and decorative coatings. Three-phase systems of both gel for modeling and gel varnishes are considered professional.
Gel nail extensions in phases:
- Base gel.
- Modeling gel.
- Top
The second phase is represented by a wide variety of colors and consistency. Transparent gels camouflage and white are popular. There are also colored gels, which are applied in a thin layer to the formed nail for design.
There are single-phase gels that usually strengthen the nails under a color coating. They are used for emergency lengthening of nails or for repair, in case of breakage of one or two natural nails. They hold well only on naturally strong nails. Weak nails detach.
Gel polishes
Recently, materials have appeared that allow you to build up your nails, combining both technologies. Acrylic powder is added to the rubber base for gel varnishes and applied to the nail like gel. After polymerization in a lamp, the material becomes solid. So you can simulate nails for a short length. The advantages of such tools for nail extension is that the material is not removed by soaking and is worn as much as the hostess of the nails wants.
If necessary, the material is cut off with a mill and make a correction or a new coating. Since the transparent base is put in a sufficiently thick layer, during correction there is no need to cut off all the material. This allows you to change the color coating every three weeks and have nails as long as you want. The rubber base adheres very well to the nail and does not exfoliate when regrowing. Therefore, soon natural nails, coated with gel polish, reach the desired size. This technology allows you to recommend a base mixed with powder, as a tool for building nails at home.
What you need to purchase for nail extension
For modeling nails, you first need to decide on the technology to be selected. The starter kit depends on this. If you choose an acrylic system, then to complete the jacket you can list the following materials:
- Acrylic powder: clear, camouflage, pink clear and white.
- Monomer of the same brand as the powder.
- Acid Primer
For a gel system, the list of nail extension products will be different:
- Gels: basic, camouflage, transparent, pink transparent, white and top.
- Acid free primer.
- Means for sticky layer (can be replaced with clinser).
Both the one and the other method require careful preparation of the nail by the clipper. Gel technology needs a UV lamp, gel varnishes do not dry in it. Therefore, if the choice fell on the gel, it is better to purchase a combined UV / LED lamp. This is useful for applying gel polish. In addition, you need brushes (they are different for gel and acrylic), files, buffs and polishers. And, of course, manicure tools. For filing nails, it is convenient to use a manicure machine with a set of cutters. This greatly speeds up the process of building and correction.
What materials should be avoided
In inexpensive cosmetics stores, you can see tools for nail extensions in ready-made kits with instructions for use. With a high degree of probability, these are low-quality materials that can quickly lead to allergies. Many masters faced this problem due to lack of awareness at the beginning of their careers.
In addition to low-quality gel, you can find morally obsolete products - gels of early generations. They do not hold well on nails, are afraid of water, exfoliate and spoil nails. Cheap primers are mostly acidic. They beginner can earn a chemical burn of the nail plate.
Our country has a certification system, and a self-respecting manufacturer will offer a copy of the certificate. In order not to guarantee to buy dangerous drugs, it is better to purchase them in professional stores for beauty salons. They organize master classes, have technology consultants who will advise on how to use purchased materials.
Tips or shapes?
Tips are not considered acceptable material for building modern nails. This technology is outdated for a long time and is now used for a single repair of a broken off nail tip, when the finger pad does not allow to substitute the template form, according to which the master applies the material. With the help of forms, beautiful nails are obtained, having an elegant elongated nail bed. The cushions on such nails become parallel, and the nails take an arched shape after preloading the simulated transverse arch. It is impossible to make such nails on tips, they crack when preloaded, the nail bed turns out to be short or shines through the camouflage. You can, of course, increase the layer of material, but then the nails become coarse and heavy.
Those beginners who want to make their own nails at home can try this method. But, having mastered the formulation of forms, they will quickly abandon the tips. Some craftsmen continue to use them, sticking to nails and covering them with clear gel or acrylic. But inevitably, after three weeks of wearing, the natural edge of the nail bed begins to glimpse. The view becomes sloppy.
Conclusion
Nail extension products are now sold in many stores. But do not forget that this process is to some extent a prosthesis of the nail. Therefore, the requirements for it should be with great care for sanitary rules. They are strictly prescribed in the document for beauty salons. Therefore, even for home use, it is worth choosing professional materials.