Uzbek fabrics appeared thousands of years ago when three great Khanates were formed on the territory of the modern state: Khiva, Bukhara and Kokand. These fabrics were known far beyond the borders of Uzbekistan. Clothing made of cotton and silk was a sign of high status, so women from the harems of the eastern rulers certainly wore such dresses and hats.
What are the fabrics?
Uzbek national fabrics come in many varieties, ranging from ordinary cotton material to fine silk. The technology of manufacturing yarn takes a lot of time and effort, so most of the production in modern Uzbekistan is automated.
Here are the types of matter you can buy on the shops of noisy bazaars:
- Atlas is the most famous and colorful silk material from which light and airy outfits are sewn.
- Natural cotton - used for sewing gowns, underwear and shirts. From cotton produce many different tarps, which are very popular among the population. If you knew she wore silk dressing gowns with velvet suspenders, then ordinary farmers (peasants) wore plain clothes made of bouz (like linen fabric), docks (very much like gauze) and ganda, from which skullcaps were sewn for the head.
- Velvet is a very soft and pleasant to the touch material, from which they sew not only clothes, but also decorations for decorating rooms.
Features
First of all, when looking at the Uzbek fabrics, very bright and colorful patterns are thrown, which undoubtedly delight the eye and involuntarily cause a smile. Depending on the patterns and ornament, the fabric is divided into everyday and festive. The clothes that they plan to wear at some special occasion are always sewn from the most expensive types of fabric. And such are silk and han-atlas, which are incredibly smooth and light.
Dresses sewn from the famous atlas khan are ideal for any type of girls, because they, like the feathers of a Semurg bird, lie smoothly on the body and seem to envelop it, highlighting all the advantages and hiding flaws.
In general, all of the silk that is produced in Uzbekistan is the finest work of art. Each thread is connected and interwoven with the previous one in such an intricate way that it is impossible to trace its beginning and end. And the dresses that Uzbek craftswomen sew from silk atlases will decorate any woman. Even modern fashion designers have paid special attention to this amazing and truly feminine fabric. On world catwalks, one can often see beauties in the national pride of Uzbekistan - in clothes from the khan-atlas!
Interesting geography
The main national treasure in the field of textiles - atlas khan - is made in historical places of Uzbekistan. Whereas in central cities such as Tashkent, Andijan and Ferghana long ago switched to the industrial production of fabrics, in ancient Samarkand, Khiva and Bukhara they still honor traditions and create Uzbek fabrics manually according to the ancient rules of weaving. Every year, thousands of tourists from all over the world come to the historical cities of ancient Uzbekistan to plunge into the stunning and original culture of this country. Many are surprised by the number of folk crafts existing here, one of which is weaving.
The process of creating fabrics is very time-consuming: first, the craftswomen bind a bundle of threads, then they are dyed using the "abr" (cloud) technology. Everything is done manually, and therefore it can take a whole week of painstaking work to create one standard cut. When the fabric is woven, patterns appear on it.
Sericulture
The quality of the silk from which the fabric itself is made plays a very large role. Real silk is extracted from the cocoon of a caterpillar called a silkworm. For the first time, these small butterflies were bred in China specifically for sericulture. In those days, this sophisticated fabric was an important component of the economy of many eastern countries. Camel caravans loaded with bales with magnificent Chinese and Uzbek satin (silk fabric) were sent to distant countries for trade and exchange of outlandish goods.
Uzbekistan also did not stand aside and began breeding shrubs. Silkworm caterpillars can only feed on mulberry leaves, so residents of ancient settlements began to set up gardens with these shrubs. Until now, in many cities of the republic, you can find small trusts that have their own base for the production of real silk.
The process of obtaining silk is very interesting. First, butterflies lay eggs, from which the caterpillars hatch. These silkworms eat mulberry leaves for 30 days, after which they begin to pupate. For 4-5 days they weave a cocoon, which is a continuous silk thread. The length and color of the final product largely depends on the breed of butterflies, as well as on environmental conditions (temperature, humidity and amount of food). Modern mulberry caterpillars weave exclusively white silk thread, the length of which in one cocoon can reach more than 1000 meters.
Varieties of the Atlas Khan
The Uzbek fabric in the photo, which shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow, is called an atlas. There are more than 100 different types of this fabric, which is produced both on an industrial scale and in a single copy. The most famous of them are:
- Adras - it is half composed of silk, and the other part, cotton, adds a little resistance to its texture.
- Shoi and podkhodoh - this fabric is made exclusively from real silk, so it is very soft and smooth to the touch.
- Pasma is another satin fabric that contains cotton.
- Bekasab and banoras are the most beautiful and delicate fabrics from which dresses for the bride are sewn.
As you know, the girl’s dowry not only speaks about her personal tastes, but also emphasizes the status of her family. In eastern countries, they love jewelry, especially gold. However, not everyone can afford an expensive and luxurious dowry, therefore, from a long time ago, the fabric was created with such patterns that their beauty would replace all the charm of precious jewelry.
Where to find Uzbek fabrics in Moscow?
Not everyone will find opportunities to travel to the ancient cities of Uzbekistan, but anyone who wants to feel the romance of oriental tales and legends will be able to purchase silk fabrics with patterns in the capital of Russia. The Uzbek fabric shop in Moscow is located near the metro station “Kozhukhovskaya”, on Yuzhnoportovaya street, 13. At this address is a large boutique “Caravan of Uzbek Souvenirs”, where you can buy the most colorful fabrics. From the atlas you can sew such chic dresses, before which many world fashion brands will fade.
The most famous ornaments on the atlas are kapalak (butterfly), ilon izi (snake footprint), gadjak (jewelry, earrings), bodom (almond), tumor (omelet), taroqcha (scallop), chaqiriq (echo) and others. With such a variety, it is difficult to resist buying all types of satin and not lose your head. When choosing a fabric, you should consider the style of the future dress, as well as your figure. The main thing is to choose the right pattern. And real experts in Uzbek fabrics - masters and seamstresses who have vast experience working with silk satin and velvet - will help you with this.