Nail extension technology is constantly evolving. New products and techniques are emerging. Auxiliary tools are being developed - such as upper or arched shapes. The idea of ideal extended nails, their proportions is changing. Now the first acrylic nails seem ugly - wide, bent down.
Nail modeling has become an art. There are such forms of nails that only artists wear - such an image requires a scene. But there is salon modeling, with its own traditions. So to say, nails "ready-to-wear". It will be discussed.
What are the types of nail extensions?
The technology of nail extension is reduced to the polymerization of acrylates, creating an artificial nail plate. A variety of methods does not affect the final result. Properly performed building forms beautiful, long, strong nails. A master who owns all the technologies will find the best way to solve the problem. An individual approach to each finger is what he achieves.
Sometimes girls come into the salon, confident that they need to build up their nails with gel “like in the picture” and do it in an hour. And when the master, looking at a photo from a fashion magazine, answers that it is impossible in such a short time, they are offended and consider the masters to be a drop-in. It is sad.
Of course, there are high-speed building methods. But it takes time to complete an elongated French bed, design after building up (sometimes choosing an option for this design). Therefore, it is good to have an idea of the various methods of nail extension. To date, technologies have been developed for building up with gel, acrylic, bio-gel, on disposable, upper or arched forms. Let's consider them in more detail.
Gel technology
Gel nail extension technology is slightly different in different schools. We present a simulation that uses the extension of the nail bed with a fiber class:
- Standard preparation of nails is shine removal, degreasing.
- Fiberglass nail pattern.
- Primer application.
- Application of the base gel and lay-up of the fiberglass. Polymerization.
- Laying the nail bed with camouflage gel. Polymerization.
- Disposable form.
- The calculation of the free edge of the white gel. Polymerization.
- Reinforcement with a hard transparent gel. Polymerization.
- Excretion of the structure with a liquid transparent gel. Polymerization.
- Dispersion removal, sawdust, grinding, degreasing.
- Design and top gel coating. Polymerization. Dispersion removal.
In the case when the jacket is not needed, the overlay of the fireclass and sawdust of the nail bed is skipped. For the beauty of the lines, the gel is pressed with special tweezers.
Acrylic technology
The technology for building acrylic nails is distinguished by precisely calibrated movements: acrylic polymerizes in air. Therefore, the size of the brush, the amount of monomer and acrylic powder is important for the formation of the desired drop of material.
Classical acrylic modeling includes the following operations:
- Standard preparation of nails is cutting off the free edge of the nail, removing the gloss, degreasing.
- Setting a disposable paper form, folded according to the template for modeling the arch.
- Processing the nail plate with an acid primer.
- A large ball of material is collected on the brush and the free edge is laid out.
- A middle ball of pink acrylic is collected and a joint with a free edge is formed.
- A small pink ball fills the cuticle area.
- Transparent acrylic strengthens the stress zone.
- The arch is preloaded.
- The form is removed.
- Sawing, grinding, polishing with special files.
Acrylic nails are thinner than gel nails, but are afraid of solvents.
Form extension
Extend nails on forms and tips. Tips do not leave room for modeling complex structures, for which you need to put the form slightly down or slightly up from the plane of the nail. But sometimes they are needed: when the nails are too short with large pads on the fingers or too high hyponichia, which does not allow to substitute the form. The wizard will choose how best to do the simulation. But, I must say, a professional will try to make the most of forms.
Only forms are used for correction. In addition, through two corrections, the tips grow together, and then you need to raise the free edge, cutting it with a mill. Nails grow a little down, after a certain time it becomes visible. Therefore, the free edge is filed.
The technology of nail extension on forms allows much more than on tips. It is divided into several types of staging:
- No change in paper form.
- With undercut shapes at the side rollers.
- With a template for a perfect arch.
- Bonding two shapes for extreme lengths.
- Springboard substitution (on natural "pecking" nails).
- Substitution "slightly down" for the stylet (so that the side lines after filing were in place).
Often you have to cut a paper form along the line of a smile for each nail.
Biogel extension
The technology of nail extension with biogel, in general, does not differ from ordinary gel. The main thing is not to confuse an independent biogel and a non-independent one, which is so flexible that it does not allow forming a free edge without a solid gel substrate.
Procedure:
- Nail preparation - cutting off the free edge of the nail, removing shine, degreasing.
- Disposable form.
- Processing the nail plate with an acid-free primer.
- The implementation of the substrate by an independent biogel, polymerization.
- Removing the sticky layer, sawdust.
- Biobase application, polymerization.
- Layout of the structure with camouflage from the biogel line, polymerization.
- Drawing a smile with white biogel, polymerization.
- Overlapping with top gel from the biogel system and polymerization.
This type of extension is used in the case of a thin nail plate.
Forms for building: upper and lower
The technology of gel nail extension on the forms is upper and lower. Conventional disposable forms used for building are placed under a short nail. The whole structure is built on top of the mold. But there is another way, not recognized by the International School of nail experts. These are the upper forms.
This technology was invented to help the salon master for high-speed gel modeling. When using the upper forms, the operations of filing and grinding are excluded. A considerable plus is the ability to lay out an aquarium manicure in the form, and not on the nail.
Not all gels are suitable for polymerization in the form: transparent gels polymerize well, but pigmented ones do not. But for such a case, there are LED gels. To work with the upper forms, you need a rotary lamp to dry the free edge under the nail.
Such forms are well suited for modeling nails of short length, but it should be noted that it will not be possible to tighten them. If you need to build long modern arched nails, there is another technology.
Arched forms
The upper forms were created even before the adoption of new architecture standards for simulated nails. They are designed to lay out the structure in the form, while arched forms are designed to create a substrate. Architecture is built by the master from above.
There was an opportunity to carry out the extension of all modern types of long nails. If necessary, the arched form can be put a little up or a little down. The upper forms did not allow this.
The phased technology for nail extension on arched forms does not differ from conventional gel technology on forms. Excludes substitution of a one-time form, laying out the substrate, setting the template and preloading the free edge.
In general, they help the master very much, since you do not need to repeatedly substitute-cut the paper form, you do not need templates for the transverse arch - the forms already have a competitive bend.
Preloading is necessary only in the area of the antennae of the smile, and then not always.
Phased gel nail extension technology
There are single-phase gels that are convenient to build nails at home. Although such a gel combines all three phases (base, construction and top), the process is carried out according to a scheme similar to three-phase gels:
- Nail preparation - you need to completely remove the natural free edge, then use the buff to remove the natural shine of the nail. Brush off the dust and degrease the nail with alcohol.
- Primer application is an important operation.
- By rubbing with a semi-dry brush, a natural nail bed is processed. This sets the boundaries of artificial material beyond which it should not flow. Polymerization.
- Setting the form - as usual, cutting the smiles on the sides, substituting a template for c-bending.
- The implementation of the substrate on the entire free edge and the tip of a natural nail. If the gel is tightened, apply forceps at the 10th second and continue polymerization.
- Laying out the architecture: a large drop is distributed over the entire length, the nail turns over and an apex is formed - the highest point. Polymerization.
- Removing the sticky layer, filing and grinding.
- Coating with a final layer of gel, like varnish. Polymerization.
It turns out a solid nail, so it’s better to take a camouflage gel - you get a nude manicure. If you want to make a white smile after filing, the eighth point will be the application of the white tip with gel polish and, after polymerization, coating with a gel polish top.
Conclusion
Nail extension technology has many options. Which one is right for you - a competent master will tell you. Therefore, before you build your nails at home, it is better to get advice from a specialist.