The oceans are not allowed to remain in complete calm. Water is continuously moving, surging, cast. As a result of overtaking phenomena, it happens that their level changes dramatically. Vertical currents form. The excitement of the smooth surface is caused by winds, the attraction of the moon and the sun, the depths are excited by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions. The movements of unsteady masses are closely connected with the planetary system of air currents above the Earth. Extensive topic. Let's talk about surf in geography for now. Poets often ask him not to run away too fast.
In a lyrical manner
Some people have the opportunity to go to the shore of the Black Sea, others - the Volga River, still others - the Angara, fourth - a small rivulet flowing right behind the garden. They all notice how waves, powerful or quiet, beat against the edge of the earth. Rolling, rolling, approaching, immediately removed. The process intensifies, calms down, but does not stop.
What is the surf according to romantics? Fairy swing on which you can mentally ride. Chips and algae do this with an enviable constancy - up and down! Everyone who is inclined to animate nature speaks of the friendliness of the phenomenon: lowering your hand in the life-giving moisture, you feel the touch: "Hello, my friend!"
The lyrics give way to a sense of drive when you imagine an oceanic foamy wave. By the way, "surf" in English is surf. Hence the name of the modern sport - surfing. Riding a steep ridge while standing on a special board is an indescribable feeling. Leisure became popular in the 1950s. Long before that, “vertical races” were not considered sports - the inhabitants of the Pacific islands, conquering the elements, demonstrated their courage, defended the right to leadership.
To the gentle sounds
The wind likes to walk easily and spaciously, especially in large spaces. Hostile conditions - reefs, rocks and other treacherous places - create very high waves. The noise of the surf is so deafening! It’s dangerous to ride such “slides”. Where there is a coastline, as a rule, they organize special places for entertaining surfers, using more suitable options for practical purposes.
The measured surf noise is a special article. He can lull, soothe, inspire pleasant thoughts. It happens, excites, inclines to melancholy. I want to plug my ears in my hands and run to where there is silence. There is a certain dependence: having waited for the alarm, it pulls back to where the sea or river sounds with eternal chords. That's what the surf is!
Waves do not run horizontally: bounce on the move, making vertical (oscillatory) movements. The picture is familiar to fishermen: the float is up and down, up and down. An integral part of fishing equipment is like a gray feather in the steppe: it sways, letting in air currents, but itself, like the field, is not from the spot.
Wind power
How is a comb formed? The lower part of the water mass near the coast is braked to the bottom, the upper one is still moving, followed by a forward inclination and tipping over. The stream, striving for land - in a white cap of foam, the reverse - without it. A small wave gives rise to a quiet rustling (“Foamy rustling of coastal waves”), a high - a roar resembling thunder.
Returning to the circulation of the atmosphere, we note: the wind presses on a shaky surface, knocking down its fragile balance. With a force of up to 2.4 m / s a wave usually rises no higher than 4 meters. A storm can severely raise masses to around 20 m. There are known cases of wind waves from a ten-story building. At 34 meters, a whopper shot up in the distant 1933 in South Africa, at the site of the Agulhas current.
Such waves are called killers, robbers, villains, "bad jokes." They are breaking ships. For a long time it was believed that "wandering waves" - something from the realm of fantasy. Reliable evidence gradually accumulated, and statistical studies were conducted. There are many assumptions about the causes of the occurrence, only one thing is clear: the phenomenon is not associated with catastrophic geophysical events.
We warn you again: surfing in the area of "bad jokes" (not even too high) leads to disastrous consequences. Do not take chances! What is the surf - many know, you can not argue with it!
Advantages and disadvantages
As soon as the wind subsides, the riot of "robbers" is replaced by ripples or gentle "swings". When diving to a depth, the excitement of water is almost imperceptible. But what a depth! Today we are not about them. What is surf? This is a powerful destroyer that can toss and drag multi-ton stones. To protect the coast from its energy, people build breakwaters (hydraulic structures).
He is also a builder. Relaxing on the beach - sandy or pebble - people rarely think that the place is a modest gift from the surf. He carefully crushed and tested large formations, a wonderful natural perpetuum mobile!
Just falling ...
One of the most important mechanisms of motion is the refraction of waves. They rarely break on the beach at right angles. The upward movement of water to land (skew) occurs at an oblique angle. Water return (backwash) - at right angles to the beach. This leads to a clean movement of the beach material in the lateral direction (beach drift).
By mixing, the water is enriched with oxygen, it becomes less cold, which means it is more suitable for reproduction and life of the inhabitants of the sea and river depths. Tell and show the children what the surf, tide, ebb, current, tsunami, storms are. It is very interesting! In the meantime, feed on the elements of the ocean, sky, touch the philosophy of being! See you!