In the manufacture of cosmetics using natural oils. But it happens that the best cream is not suitable for problem skin. Although the reason may be a shortage of necessary vitamins and minerals, as well as a hereditary tendency of the skin to form comedones, it makes sense to pay attention to the composition of the product.
With a rich assortment of cosmetic products, you can always choose the most non-comedogenic oil. What is it and how to determine the right oil? Let's get it right.
The concept of comedogenicity
The medical name for clogged, inflamed skin hair sacs is comedones. This word formed the basis of the term, which means the negative impact on the skin until the appearance of white or black dots - blackheads. Not every skin responds well to heavy, clogging oil pores. In some cases, you will have to abandon cosmetics, which includes a dangerous ingredient and choose another product containing non-comedogenic oil.
The skin of all people is different. What is suitable for one person will be harmful to another. Therefore, scientists carefully studied this parameter and compiled a table in which all oils were rated from zero to five. Oils that did not cause harm to the skin are located in the zero zone. The least comedogenic take from one to two points. The average performance of oils was estimated at C grade. The most severe received four and five points.
Composition of oils and sebum (sebum)
Biochemistry distinguishes three types of fatty acids that affect skin cells in different ways:
- Saturated, which interact with skin secretion and clog pores.
- Monounsaturated, having small molecules and able to penetrate deeply into the epidermis. Able to dissolve the secret of clogged pores.
- Polyunsaturated, rapidly oxidizing. It can damage oily skin.
The composition of cosmetics includes all three types of fatty acids in different proportions. The composition of sebum, too. And comedogenicity depends on what acids are more. The predominance of saturated acids, coupled with linoleic deficiency, can provoke acne. Accordingly, the more monounsaturated acids, the more non-comedogenic oil.
Types of Natural Oils
In cosmetology and the medical industry, essential and fatty oils are distinguished. The latter are divided into active and basic. They can have the same name, so it is very important to know how to get them. Essential oils are obtained not by extraction, but by distillation. Apply them drop by drop, limited to aromatherapy. You can, however, add them to others in a ratio of 1:30, that is, one drop of essential oil - thirty drops of the base.
The characteristic of active oils is reflected in their name. They enter into reactions, contain many vitamins and other substances. They are mixed with the base for use, because without it they can spoil the skin.
Base oils are not hazardous to use. They are similar to the natural secretion of the skin of a healthy person and are the basis of cosmetic products. They are obtained by pressing and mixed with each other, which for active oils should never be done. Base non-comedogenic facial oils that are well suited to oily skin are hempseed or rosehip seeds.
It should be noted that there is another division: refined and unrefined. For care, it is better to choose refined peeled, because in this case the risk of allergies is minimized.
Comedogenicity Index
Some oils presented in the table give an idea of the composition of cosmetics with their participation and allow you to choose the right product based on the comedogenicity index.
Comedogenicity Level | Recommendations | The product's name |
0 | For all | Hemp, sunflower, argan |
1 | For everyone except oily skin | Castor |
2 | For dry and normal | Almond, grape seed |
3 | The same | Soybean, Cotton |
4 | For dry | Coconut, palm, linseed |
5 | Requires dilution | Wheat germ |
If the product takes the first or second line in this table, then it is considered to be non-comedogenic. Wheat germ oil was recognized as the most dangerous, which scored 5 points.
How to choose cosmetics
Knowing the product index will be useful when buying another cream or making a choice between cosmetic non-comedogenic facial oils. The list of products presented in the table is an example. There are too many to indicate everything. After all, oils are not the only ingredients that are part of cosmetics and also have a comedogenicity index. After the study, a zero level was found in petroleum jelly and ceresin. Lanolin was assigned the first level, and beeswax received two points.
When choosing a cosmetic product, one should look at the composition and also take into account excipients. Those components that have the highest specific gravity are indicated on the label first. This is usually water. Active substances that form an emulsion or suspension with water follow. These are oils. But they can not be used in pure form, but be diluted with the same petroleum jelly or emulsion wax. In the first case, the comedogenicity of the cream will be lower.
It should be noted that sensitive and oily skin is more prone to acne than other types. The viscosity of sebum (sebum) is usually increased in such people, metabolic processes in the skin proceed a little differently. It is necessary to overexpose cosmetics on the face - and clogged pores are provided. The higher the index in the table, the more thickening the product has. Penetrating into the pores, such cosmetics greatly expands them, provoking acne. In such cases, it is better to entrust the choice of cosmetics to the cosmetologist.
Beautician tips for choosing facial oil
The composition of the recipes for face masks includes oil. So that the consequences of home care do not have to be treated later, you should be careful about his choice. There are certain principles that cosmetologists adhere to:
- With low oleic acid levels, the skin is likely to be oily. The problem of its nutrition should be addressed by cosmetics containing non-comedogenic oil. Before contact with her, a deep cleansing of makeup is required. Requires a change in nutrition, an increase in foods containing Omega-6.
- For normal or dry skin, you can use oils with an index from 0 to 3, without neglecting its quality cleansing.
- All products with an index of 4 or 5 are not suitable for use without prior dilution.
Oil rating
The list of non-comedogenic oils is headed by a representative of a zero index and a high percentage of linoleic acid - safflower, which is considered ideal for problem skin.
The second place is rightfully occupied by primrose oil - it has the second level, and the content of linoleic acid is almost the same. It is able to treat acne formed by increased hormonal levels.
In third place is also grape seed oil, which also has a second comedogenicity level. Linoleic acid in it is less than in the previous one, but only by 4 percent.
The fourth place was taken by everyone available sunflower oil for a zero level of comedogenicity and almost seventy percent of linoleic acid. This is a good non-comedogenic oil for oily skin. Some consider it very similar to safflower.
Conclusion
In choosing the oil, you can not give clear instructions which of them is most suitable for a particular skin in a particular case. There are different situations, there is a mixed type of skin, the hormonal background changes. Everything can be taken into account only by a doctor, who will rely not on external manifestations, but on the results of the tests. And maybe the most non-comedogenic face oil will not work in the treatment of acne. Then medicines will be prescribed, a balanced diet is recommended and the skin will be cleaned.
Although safflower oil is highly regarded, it is sometimes better to replace it with sterilized sunflower oil. Instead of industrial creams, use natural masks. And then face care will be of the highest quality and at the same time quite budgetary. The main thing is to start. Good luck!