What is French Chablis wine? It’s dry to say that it is made from Chardonnay grapes - it’s the same as saying nothing. The definition of “burgundy” also brings little clarity to the description of this wonderful drink. Let us try to bite through this wine with character. If we say: “White, dry”, then we will humiliate “Chablis”. It is more noble, refined and rich in shades than wines, which are customary in France to prepare sauces. So what is Chablis and how does it differ from Chardonnay (of which, in fact, it consists)? Let's try to figure it out. And also to understand which Chablis wines are valued more and which are less.
A bit of history
Advancing the borders of their empire to the north, the ancient Romans brought to the lands of the Franks and the culture of wine production. They began to plant vines wherever possible, and the rather cool climate with frequent vagaries of the weather did not stop them. Burgundy was one of the regions that the Romans recognized as suitable for growing grapes. The city of Chablis had not yet appeared on the map, and already on the surrounding hills a crop of amber-green berries was being harvested. Another thousand years passed, and the French bred Chardonnay grapes by selection. And in the XII century, the monks of the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny recognized that white wine reveals its bouquet better , shows elegance and subtlety if the harvest is harvested from vines growing on the slopes near the town of Chablis. “Bonoit” - so dubbed the local drink - was so appreciated in the Middle Ages that it was delivered to the royal court. In the end, Chablis white wine became associated with all alcoholic drinks from Burgundy.
What is unique about this region?
Take a look at the map of this huge province. We see a land that has long been famous for wines. Saying "Burgundy", many French people mean red from Bon, a bit sweet and tart Grenazh. But in the very north of the region there is the Yonne region. Its soils are unique. Millions of years ago a warm sea splashed here. Cretaceous deposits remaining in the soil convey a wonderful mineral note to the wine. However, the soils here are acidic, which also affects the taste of berries. The climate in Yonne is pretty cool for viticulture. To harvest, the sun needs to be "caught", protecting the vines from the cold north winds. This opportunity is given by the low, but still hills in the vicinity of the town of Chablis. Vineyards cover the southern slopes above the banks of the Seren River. Every autumn, the streets of a small town are flooded with visitors who want to try and buy a drink from the new crop. But how to choose the right bottle and not miscalculate?
Chablis wines: classification
The lands around the famous town are divided into four appellations. And although they all produce dry white Chablis wine exclusively from Chardonnay, the origin of this or that hill is of great importance. The lowest in hierarchy is Petit Chablis. Vines of this category grow on the outskirts of the region, on the plain. Wine "Petit Chablis" fully lives up to its name ("Petit" in French - small). This is a young, almost playing drink. He wonderfully quenches thirst, is considered summer. It is customary to serve in a jug (although it is often put on the table and in a bottle). A little higher in the hierarchy is simply Chablis. It is more interesting than Petit, with pronounced sourness. It is held for 1-3 years, but nothing bad will happen to the drink if the bottle is uncorked and after ten years. The Premier Cru appellation is located along the banks of the Sérén and, in turn, is divided into climates: Mont de Millier, Monte de Tonner, Fourche, Vod Wei, Borois, Monmen, Veyon and others. But the top of the Chablis wine hierarchy is crowned by Grand Cru. Small plots on the right bank of the Seren, miraculously saved in the 19th century from the phylloxera invasion, give berries for this variety. And now let's talk about all these categories in more detail.
Baby Chablis
Do not rush to wrinkle a contemptuous nose if you are offered Petit Chablis. In the soil where vines of this category grow, there is no marl, but there is limestone, and therefore you have a mineral taste. Wine "Petit Chablis" is drunk young. It has a green tint, aroma of freshly cut hay, pronounced sourness. It is called the "summer drink" because it quenches thirst well. This wine can be served as an aperitif. But experts say that the most successful tender is the young Chablis with oysters or Escargoes from snails. You can serve it with soft cheeses - brie and camembert. Petit Chablis has one interesting nuance: Vieilles Vignes. These two words indicated on the label mean that the wine was made from a crop of old, 25-year-old vines. Sourness in such wine is more smooth, and the taste is more tender.
Chablis Category
Chablis white wine, unlike many light Burgundy based on Chardonnay, is not aged in oak barrels. Contact with such a characteristic wood is believed to harm the delicate mineral taste of the drink. Therefore, it is kept in stainless tanks. Dry, but not sharp, it is perfect for seafood and snails. It also looks good accompanied by meat snacks. After five years of aging, Chablis dry white wine opens its bouquet, and its green eye begins to wink. The drink loses its aggressiveness, the taste of sour apple and citrus is transformed into honey notes with a chalky tint.
Premier Cru Category
Wine "Chablis Premier Cru" produce only thirty plots. The value of this appellation lies in a more complex and persistent bouquet, in which acacia honey acts as the dominant note. Shades of fruit and an almost imperceptible note of iodine (greetings from the sea that has long disappeared) complement the taste picture. Many sommeliers argue which climate is better. Many agree that this is CĂ´te de Leshe, Butto, Foret and Monte de Tonner. This wine "Chablis" reviews recommend drinking no earlier than a five-year aging period. Then, the notes of hazelnut appear clearly in the drink. This wine is not served as an aperitif - too expensive. It accompanies the main dishes of white meat, poultry, fish. Sometimes you can afford to serve it with meat snacks, but very refined, for example, foie gras.
Chablis Grand Cru
Vineyards in this category occupy small areas (only three percent of all the lands of the glorious town). They are all located on the right bank of the Seren, on the southwestern hillside. The microclimate there is most favorable for winemaking. The drink is very expensive because the yield of berries is small (compared to other appellations), and the production process is long. The land is divided into climates: Vodezir, Valmur, Préz, Grenouil, Clos, Bouguereau and Blanchot. But no matter what Grand Crew Chablis wines you purchase, it will always be a great choice. The terroir makes them special, because in the soil there are a lot of clay-rocky bollards, which gives the drinks decisiveness. This wine many manufacturers withstand 8-15 years, and sometimes - in oak barrels. Their taste is perfect. Soft, harmonious, rounded, with a long train. The dominant note in a rich and unforgettable bouquet is ... the smell of gun flint. Clos is considered the best climate. The wine from there has the aroma of the real gunpowder.
California Chablis?
People who know French wines know that in this country there is strict “name control by origin” (AOC). This allows you to be sure that the bottle of Chablis that you purchased was filled with a drink made in the distilleries of the same town. And, although the Chardonnay variety is grown in many places, and the production technology can be copied, nevertheless, soil acidity, marl and limestone, lying in the bowels, as well as the climate can not be borrowed. However, enterprising Americans produce their Chablis wine. France is indignant, because in a mild California climate, Chardonnay gives a sweeter berry. And therefore, the wine is very different from the original. In the north of Burgundy, the vine goes into combat with cold winds, rainy summers and early frosts, but the drink comes out with bold sourness. But in America, the Californian Chablis came to court and even entered into great literature. For example, this wine is mentioned in John Updike's Witches of Eastwick.
How to drink Chablis wine
Whichever appellation the drink from northern Burgundy belongs to, it must be savored chilled. "Petit Chablis" is drunk young. It makes no sense to store it for a long time, because with age the wine acquires the smell of wool. But the more titled “Chablis” is worth keeping. Chablis reveals its best qualities in its fourth year. Premier Cru gives caramel and honey notes after aging for three to eight years. Grand Crew reaches the zenith of its glory in only ten. When purchasing wine from the manufacturer, keep in mind that the most successful drinks are obtained after a hot summer. This is 1990, 1992, 1996-2000.