Jewelry art is the manufacture of various products, usually from precious metals using gems. Initially, such things served not only for beauty, but also in order to emphasize the high social status of the owner or owner. Also, magical functions were often attributed to jewelry. They were used, for example, as protective amulets and talismans. The history of jewelry is rooted in antiquity. Initially, the creation of jewelry did not involve any kind of processing. Over the centuries, art has improved, craftsmen have created increasingly sophisticated and sophisticated jewelry. Let's trace the history of the jewelry craft and name it outstanding masters.
Ancient Egypt
Jewelry was surprisingly well developed in ancient Egypt. Jewelry created there is still striking in its beauty and complexity. In shape, they usually resembled images of ancient deities. In ancient Egypt, they believed that jewelry performed magical functions: they protect against diseases and evil spells, bind a person to the forces of nature.
Wearing jewelry relied on certain areas of the body. First of all, it was the region of the heart (it was considered the most significant organ). To protect him, scarab items were worn on his chest. The beetle symbolized vitality, activity, resurrection. In addition, the middle of the forehead was an important point. Ancient Egyptian masters, making jewelry for her, used symbols of strength and wisdom, such as images of a snake. Speaking about the technique of manufacturing products, it can be noted that chasing and engraving were usually used, and the Egyptians' favorite materials were gold, silver, obsidian and amethyst.
Ancient Greece
Ancient jewelry in Greece was distinguished by great grace and subtlety. A favorite technique of the craftsmen was filigree - making a very complicated pattern of thin gold or silver wire soldered to a metal background. Most often, a floral ornament was used: images of flowers, leaves, vines.
Of the materials, gold was valued above all - the ancient Greeks attributed magical properties to this metal. In general, jewelry emphasized the status of the owner, so the finer and more complex the work was, the more expensive it was. Rich Greek women wore a wide variety of jewelry. Graceful items for hair and neck, as well as bracelets, were held in high esteem. The only exception was Sparta - local women did not wear lush and bizarre jewelry, preferring simple metal jewelry.
Renaissance Jewelry
Renaissance jewelry impresses with its sophistication, beauty and sophistication. Masters used a variety of techniques, including embossing, cutting and enamel. They were largely influenced by ancient traditions, and at the same time, typical features of those years were introduced.
Thus, jewelry no longer indicates the status of the owner, but rather emphasizes the sophistication of taste and imagination. They become unique and peculiar. Gems, pearls and exquisite enameled details adorn not only jewelry, but also lush ladies' outfits. Signs and massive pendants are very popular.
In Germany, craftsmen use very unusual materials in their work: coconut shells, ostrich eggs and shells.
Jewelers of Ancient Russia
Russian jewelry art has a great history. Evidence of this is made by modern archaeological excavations: the quality and subtlety of the work of ancient craftsmen are amazing even now. The jewelry art of Ancient Russia was influenced by Scandinavian, Eastern and Byzantine cultures, and at the same time was inextricably linked with folk customs and traditions.
Masters from all corners of Kievan Rus perfectly mastered the most sophisticated techniques, including art casting, scanning and gold pickup. Veliky Novgorod was famous for its jewelry made of precious metals. Kiev jewelers with extraordinary skill processed gems. The most common jewelry was the so-called temporal rings, which were woven into the hair or hung from the headgear. Also, women wore a variety of bracelets and beads with pendants.
Russia in the XIV - XVII centuries
With the advent of the Tatar-Mongol hordes, jewelry was forgotten for almost a century. Many masters died or were taken away to work with the Horde rulers. Only towards the end of the fourteenth century does a gradual return to ancient art begin. Moscow becomes the center of jewelry craft, where silver scanning technique is very popular.
In the XVI - XVII centuries, jewelry art actively uses enamel and gems. Jewelry of this period is characterized by richness, colorfulness and richness of colors. The stones are also distinguished by brightness - in honor of sapphires, rubies, emeralds. This time is called the heyday of the blackening technique. In many cities, silver centers are being created.
18th century European jewelry
In the XVIII century, the dominant styles were Baroque and Rococo. This also applies to jewelry. Freakishness, splendor and bright colors become fashionable. At the same time, the leading position is occupied by French jewelry. It was then that jewelry acquired its modern look. Jewelry ensembles gradually come into fashion, large brooches are very popular among wealthy people. The most favorite stones are diamonds of yellowish, pinkish and bluish hues, while they are used in both men's and women's suits.
Russia in the 18th century
In Russia in the 18th century, jewelry art flourished. This happened largely thanks to the reforms of Peter I. Since then, jewelry has been actively borrowing European trends, while maintaining its identity. Foreign masters often come to Russia. Among them is the famous Jeremy Posier, who worked at the court for thirty years and created true masterpieces of jewelry art. His best work is rightfully considered the Great Imperial Crown, made for Catherine II. Unique in its kind product has almost five thousand diamonds. Now this relic is carefully protected by a unique museum of jewelry - the Diamond Fund in Moscow.
In general, the use of gemstones is becoming popular at this time. Sparkling, bright, beautifully crafted and decorated, they perfectly complement and adorn the lush dresses of noble ladies and nobles.
Interestingly, the very word "jeweler" also came into use in the XVIII century. It replaced the rather long name "gold and silver craftsman."
Europe in the 19th century
In the middle of the XIX century, jewelry became more widespread. At the same time, less valuable stones and materials began to be used: aquamarine, rock crystal, malachite, and artificial diamonds. Jewelry has also changed its general style - Rococo is replaced by classicism, respectively, jewelry becomes more rigorous and carefully crafted. Products with precious stones gradually cease to be used in men's suits, but kneecaps for canes and expensive snuffboxes come into fashion.
Among the famous masters, one can distinguish the court jeweler of Napoleon I Martin Guillaume Bienne. In the XIX century, such world-famous houses as Cartier and Tiffany were born.
The situation in Russia in the XIX century
Jewelry in Russia reached the highest level in the 19th century. At this time, the direction of work changes significantly, the craftsmen try to move away from European traditions and return to the original Russian, giving the products a national flavor. River pearls are becoming especially fashionable.
Large enterprises of silver and gold business appear in St. Petersburg and Moscow. The firms of Ovchinnikov, Postnikov, the Grachev brothers and, of course, Karl Faberge are especially famous . With their amazing skill they conquer not only the Russian nobility, but also the royal courts of Western Europe. However, their products are available to the average buyer - we are talking about cigarette cases and silverware.
According to experts, the end of the XIX - the beginning of the XX century is the golden age of Russian jewelry.
Twentieth Century
In the last century, a large number of trends have been formed in jewelry. In the first decades, the dominant style is Art Nouveau. In jewelry, his influence was realized in the extreme complexity of the shapes and ornament of jewelry. Actively used platinum, palladium, anodized aluminum. Diamonds are gaining popularity again. Jewelry also becomes fashionable, the distribution of which was significantly influenced by the famous Coco Chanel.
In the war and post-war years, products become simpler, gold is often replaced by bronze. In the second half of the century, under the influence of non-conformist ideas, craftsmen began to use unusual materials that were previously unthinkable in jewelry: wood, plastic, steel and others. With the development of complex technology, jewelry appears with chameleon stones that can change color depending on temperature changes or the mood of the owner. Cultivated pearls of various colors are becoming popular.
In the Soviet years, Russian jewelry firms produced mostly mass production. But at the end of the last century, modern craftsmen decided to revive the guild of Russian jewelers in order to restore jewelry to its former glory.
Modern Art
Today, jewelry, perhaps even more than before, is becoming an art. Jewelry is one of the forms of creative expression. Modern enterprises use more professional tools and affordable materials. However, many products are made from synthetic materials. And although they cannot beat natural stones with beauty and perfection, they still compete with them worthily.
Modern jewelry art worthily continues the traditions of the old masters. And the use of new technologies allows you to create more and more unusual and interesting jewelry.